How many times have you driven mindlessly past it, that sprawling mansion atop the knoll in front of Johns Hopkins' campus? And have you ever wondered what lies behind those intricate wrought-iron gates on North Charles Street, marked only by a simple sign: "Evergreen House"?

Dr. Bodil Ottesen, associate educator of public programs at the Baltimore Museum of Art, devised a way for the public to become more involved with the idiosyncrasies that Baltimore has to offer: a lecture series offered earlier this fall on "Baltimore Mansions," through a collaboration with the BMA and Johns Hopkins University's non-credit Odyssey Program. It'll be offered again next fall (call 410-516-4842 for more information), but in the meantime, here's a glimpse of some of the fascinations found at two Baltimore mansions owned by Johns Hopkins - as well as other mansions open to the public around the area:

Evergreen House

The 48-room Evergreen House, tucked behind an intricately detailed wrought-iron gate designed by Tiffany Studios in New York City in 1895 - is considered one of the grandest in Maryland. It was built in the 1850s as a 12-room abode, but John Work Garrett, president of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, bought it in 1878 for his son, T. Harrison Garrett, who eventually joined the Garrett and Sons financial firm.

T. Harrison and his wife, Alice Whitridge, began adding on immediately. They installed four libraries - holding 8,000 books - then added a two-story wing to provide a gymnasium, billiard room, two-lane bowling alley and school rooms for the Garretts' three sons.

The oldest son - John Work Garrett, a diplomat under five presidents - inherited the house. He and his wife, Alice Warder, turned the gymnasium and bowling alleys into a private theater and a showroom for their collection of Oriental art.

Alice enlisted Leon Bakst, set and costume designer for the Ballets Russes, the leading dance company of Paris, to design what was the only such private theater in America. Today, the theater remains the world's only extant example of a Bakst-decorated playhouse.

That's impressive, but then there is the Gold Bathroom. "We don't know how it got to be so ornate," says Cindy Kelly, curator.

The window frame, water tank, toilet frame and seat are all in 23-carat gold. "It's absolutely breathtaking," Kelly says.

The facts: Evergreen House is at 4545 N. Charles St. Tours at 10 a.m., 11 a.m., 1 p.m., 2 p.m. and 3 p.m. Monday-Friday and at 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Admission is $6; $5 for seniors. Call 410-516-0341.

Holiday events:

* Museum Shop-Around, 6 p.m.-9 p.m. Dec. 4; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Dec. 5; 11 a.m to 4 p.m. Dec. 6. For a $5 admission fee, visitors can enjoy a weekend shopping extravaganza that brings together the wares of 14 local museum shops in Evergreen's Carriage House.

* Holiday concert, Dec. 11, 8 p.m. at Evergreen's Carriage House, featuring the Center City Brass Quintet. Reception afterward included in $10 admission. Call for reservations.

Homewood House

In 1800, Charles Carroll of Carrollton, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, promised to build a country house for his only son, Charles Carroll Jr., as a wedding present. One year and $40,000 (an enormous sum, even for a man whom George Washington called the "most monied man" in America) later, Homewood was produced, then located an hour away from Baltimore by carriage.

The entire house is done in Federal Style, also known as early-neoclassical. "It's the idea that as America was becoming a new nation, the founding fathers searched for a style that would reflect their new government, and so they looked to classical antiquity for inspiration," says Catherine Rogers Arthur, curator. Federal style emphasizes symmetry and proportion and incorporates such features as tall, slender columns, fan-shaped windows and an extreme attention to detail.

Indeed, some of the smallest details are the most spellbinding. For instance, in the Green Chamber is a rare "chocolate pot." As hot chocolate was a popular breakfast beverage in the early 19th century, the Carrolls owned what at first glance appears to be nothing more than an ornate coffee pot. "But the way we know it's a chocolate pot," Arthur explains, "is that the finial is still intact." The finial is a small opening at the top of the pot that allows a stirring rod to be inserted to keep the chocolate from sinking to the bottom. "It is really rare to find a chocolate pot in such good condition, because as soon as coffee became fashionable, many families had their chocolate pots soldered."

Another interesting facet of Homewood House is the decorations that were intended to trick the eye. Impostor decorations were fashionable, such as faux marble baseboards and pine doors grained to resemble mahogany.

The facts: Homewood House is located at Johns Hopkins University, 3400 N. Charles St. Open for tours 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, noon-4 p.m. Sunday. Admission is $6; $5 for seniors. Call 410-516-5589.

Holiday events:

* Craft workshop, "Scents of the Season," Sunday, 1 p.m.-3 p.m. Reservations are required for this family event; $6.

* Wreath workshop, Dec. 4. Two different sessions are offered: noon-1 p.m. and 1 p.m.-2 p.m. This Homewood-sponsored event actually takes place at the Glass Pavilion on the campus of the Johns Hopkins University, but participants can park for free at Homewood House. Participants are provided with a fragrant balsam wreath and will select bows, cones and greens for adornment. Reservations required; $15.

* "Homewood by Candlelight," decorated for the holidays and offering seasonal music and refreshments. Dec. 14, 5 p.m.-7 p.m.; $6.

* "Twelfth Night Party" Jan. 3 with 19th-century games, dancing and refreshments, 1 p.m.-3 p.m.; $10.

Other area mansions

Ballestone Manor, Rocky Point Golf Course, Back River Neck Road, Essex. 410-686-5821 or 410-887-0218. This house, originally built in 1780, is open for special occasions and by appointment.

Holiday events:

* The 22nd annual Holly Tour will be held Dec. 5 and 6 and Dec. 12 and 13. On Dec. 5 and Dec. 12, the house, decorated in holiday finery, will be open 5 p.m.-8 p.m.; on Dec. 6 and Dec. 13, the house is open from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. The tour features an exhibit of antique toys (dating from 1850 to 1940), and hot cider and homemade cookies will be served. $3; $1 for children under 12.

Charles Carroll House, 107 Duke of Gloucester St., Annapolis. 410-269-1737. Open Friday and Sunday, noon-4 p.m., and Saturdays, 10 a.m-2 p.m. $5; $4 for seniors; $2 for students; free for children under 11. This house celebrates three generations of Maryland history as the home of Charles Carroll the Settler, first attorney general of Maryland; his son Charles Carroll of Annapolis; and grandson Charles Carroll of Carrollton, the only Catholic to sign the Declaration of Independence.

Holiday events:

* Family Christmas Hands-on Workshops, Nov. 21, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Featuring boxwood workshops with holiday children's activities, children's choirs and 18th-century entertainment. Admission is $30 for the "living wreaths" workshop, $5-$10 for the activities.

* "Charles Carroll's 18th-Century Christmas Dinner and Lively Entertainment," Dec. 12. Dine and watch the Annapolis Lighted Boat Parade from historic public rooms overlooking Spa Creek. 5:30 p.m.; $55.

* Mostly Mozart Musicale. On Dec. 13, enjoy a candlelight concert featuring the Annapolis Opera and 18th-century dessert tables with Madiera Punch. 5 p.m. and 7 p.m.; $25.

Cylburn Arboretum, 4915 Greenspring Ave. 410-396-0180. Free guided tours of both the mansion and the grounds (call ahead for reservations), 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday. The Victorian Renaissance Revival-style home of the Tyson family is surrounded by gardens, wooded trails and a wildflower preserve.

Holiday events:

* Workshops 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday and 2 p.m.-4 p.m. Sunday featuring children's activities, painting flowerpots, floral designing, a nature walk and making holiday decorations. Both programs and parking are free.

* "Cylburn in Holiday Dress," Dec. 5, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., and Dec. 6, 2 p.m.-5 p.m. Free children's activities, decorations and entertainment. In addition, a tea will be offered at 2:30 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. for $2; reservations required.

Enoch Pratt Mansion, 201 W. Monument St. 410-685-3750. Tours 10 a.m.-5 p.m Tuesday-Friday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday, and 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday. $4; $3 for students and seniors. The original house of Enoch Pratt, a Baltimore merchant in the 19th century, contains artifacts from Maryland's Colonial times, including an original manuscript of Francis Scott Key's "Star-Spangled Banner."

Holiday events:

* "Down Memory Lane: A Holiday Festival of Childhood," Dec. 12, 1 p.m.-4 p.m., celebrates the lives of children, past and present. During this family event, visitors can play popular parlor games, make a dollhouse and create a replica of a toy from the Maryland Historical Society's collection. $5.

Hammond-Harwood House, 19 Maryland Ave., Annapolis. 410-269-1714. Open Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., and Sunday, noon-4 p.m. Forty-five minute tours are conducted on the hour; the last tour begins at 3 p.m. $5; $3 for students. The house is an outstanding example of Georgian architecture.

Holiday events:

* The annual 18th-century greens show and sale, Dec. 11, 10 a.m.-8 p.m., and Dec. 12, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Visitors will be greeted at the mansion with live musical performances in the festively decorated period rooms and enjoy refreshments in the Colonial kitchen. If you'd like to take home a bit of the holiday magic, purchase some of the fresh greens decorations. $6; $3 for ages 18 and under.

Home of the late Harvey S. Ladew (Ladew Topiary Gardens) in Harford County, 3535 Jarrettsville Pike. 410-557-9570.

Holiday events:

* "Christmas at an English Country House," Dec. 11-13, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Although the home and topiary gardens are closed for the season, visitors shouldn't miss this annual open house, featuring the historic home's lavishly decorated rooms. Knowledgeable tour guides are sure to include information about Harvey Smith Ladew's extensive collection of antiques, fox-hunting collectibles and other items from around the world. Creative holiday gifts will be for sale, and live holiday music helps to enhance the atmosphere. $6; $5 for seniors and students; $1 for children 12 and under.

Mount Clare Museum House, 1500 Washington Blvd. 410-837-3262. Tours 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 1 p.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. $5; $3 for seniors and students; $1 for children under 12. Maryland's first historic museum house, Mount Clare was the home of Charles Carroll, the barrister. The house contains numerous artifacts of daily life, such as rare pieces of furniture, silver and crystal.

Holiday events:

* 33rd Annual "Christmas at Mount Clare" celebration, Dec. 12-13, noon-4 p.m. The mansion will be decorated with holiday greens, and the Monumental Fife and Drum Corps will welcome guests. Inside, costumed hosts will greet visitors and serve refreshments. $5; $1 for children under 12.

Waverly in Howard County, 2335 Marriottsville Road, & 2/3 Marriottsville. Call 410-313-5400 to inquire about group or private tours of this 18th-century home of Gov. George Howard.

Holiday events:

* Candlelight tours on Dec. 7 at 10:30 a.m. and 6:30 p.m. Enjoy decorations and refreshments and sing along to holiday carols led by the Die Liedersanger Madrigal Singers. $3; $2 for seniors; $1 for children under 12.

Mansion Tour

To hit four homes in one day, try the "Holiday Traditions in Old Baltimore" tour. You can park for free at Evergreen House or Mount Clare Museum House. Then you can take transportation offered by the museums and meander through Homewood, Evergreen, Mount Clare and the Star-Spangled Banner Flag House as the homes show off their holiday decorations. Ticket price includes round-trip transportation, refreshments and entertainment at each house on Dec. 13, noon-5 p.m. Tickets cost $10; $8 for children. Call one of the four homes involved for additional information.

Pub Date: 11/12/98