1997 Chapoutier Muscat de Rivesaltes ($11/half bottle).

First the caveat: Finding this wine might take some work. You might have to have your wine dealer order it from the wholesaler (the importer does have some in stock). But it's worth the wait. If you'd like to serve a truly decadent dessert nectar after the Thanksgiving or Christmas feast, this is a magnificent choice at a price that is reasonable for wine of its quality. It offers intensely sweet, fresh flavors of honey, apricot, cherries and peach. Though it weighs in at 15 percent alcohol, there's no trace of heat in the finish. Its aromas are enticingly floral. It's just another masterpiece from the great Rhone Valley winemaker Michel Chapoutier.

Pub Date: 10/28/98