As a true American, whenever I hear that something is the biggest or the best, it attracts my attention. When I found that the Adamstown-Denver, Pa., area halfway between Reading and Lancaster has at least 2,500 permanent antiques dealers, I was hooked. To further affirm my affinity for the area, this summer USA Today chose it as the nation's premier antiquing location.

For many years I have made twice-yearly junkets here. On a nice weekend, the number of vendors swells by another 2,000 as transient hawkers selling from outdoor stands join the ranks. Cars from as far as Oregon make it their business to stop when passing Exit 21 on the Pennsylvania Turnpike. The vans and sport-utility vehicles sport license plates from a dozen Eastern states.

When I tell you that the die-hard fanatics show up before dawn for the outdoor dealers and the hardiest seekers are still at it while the sun sinks slowly over the horizon, it is no exaggeration. Not only quantity and increasingly better quality, but generally lower prices are the trio of drawing cards. Pennsylvania's hills are dotted with old houses that provide many of the items in the antiques centers.

In 1962, U.S. Route 222, state Route 272 and nearby local roads still bordered quiet farm country on the edge of Amish settlements. Then, Charles Weik, a local dealer, set up Sunday flea markets in Schupp's Grove. Several years later that vision expanded when Renninger's Farmers Market on Route 272 began providing dealers with a covered haven during the winter.

Today, farms are still scattered about, but the antiques stores are multiplying like mushrooms after an El Nino downpour. In the spring, the aroma of freshly manured fields wafts over Victorian chairs, myriad salt and pepper shakers, wooden propellers and all manner of collectibles.

Schupp's advertises: "Enjoy the romance of the woods, the thrill of the hunt, and the euphoria of 'the big find.' "

It's still true. Come earlier rather than later. You, too, may acquire the frame of an Eastlake chair for $35, several popped springs thrown in, or a propeller made in Baltimore for $350.

Morning victories

On a misty morning, the outdoor stands at Renninger's have been conducting a lively business since dawn. At 7:30, I am with a small crowd of shoppers clustering around the still-locked doors awaiting a crack at the 375 dealers inside who call this home. Doors open, grease from frying breakfast food hovers about, and everyone is off to seek his unique conquests. About half the dealers have opened already, often with coffee in hand. The other booths will begin commerce gradually, as the shower curtains, sheets and whatever else passes for dividers and a front door are pulled back to greet customers.

In general, Renninger's is a middle-of-the-road place. Curtis Nace's Iron Age Antiques attracts me, with its variety of old tools, kitchenware, Victrolas and early radios at Booth 21. At many of the establishments you can dig in and come up with good pickings. Eric Trickel of Paoli, Pa., sold me a 1930s cast-iron Tootsie toy car in good condition for $55. "It usually goes for $75," he swears from the confines of Booth E15. I also get a private lesson, gratis, on what to look for, and how to make repairs.

If Renninger's is the Chevrolet of antiques malls, Stoudt's Black Angus down the road is the Rolls Royce. Both are so large and spread out that they provide schematic plans for buyers.

At Stoudt's you can not only shop at 500 quality dealers both indoors and out, but sample the adjacent Black Angus Restaurant, Stoudt's own brewing company and (soon) enjoy an entire Stoudt's village where dealers can live above their own shops.

For me, the antiquing is the lure. The most interesting stands at Stoudt's Black Angus (many people use the name Black Angus only) are the ones that specialize. The Rice family has a number of booths and sells imposing Victorian furniture - big bucks, top quality. Weil Clocks, Booth 174, ticks away with old beauties. Val's Place exhibits thousands of salt and pepper sets at Stand 77.

Good and better

Next to Black Angus is General Heath's. I usually come home with a well-chosen item from one of its 70 dealers. Weavers, closest to Reading on Route 222, always has something good, especially in furniture or dog-related collectibles.

Just off Exit 21 of the Pennsylvania Turnpike, the Antiques Showcase at the Black Horse is an upscale establishment. As the name implies, its treasures are locked away behind glass. The more glass and locks, the higher the price and the better the condition. It's not a frenzy of discovery, but if excellence is primary, come here. Should you see the perfect Staffordshire plate and the cost is too high, you can sleep on your decision at the Black Horse Lodge and Suites next door.

Quite new and often displaying museum-quality merchandise in both glass cases and small enclosed rooms, Adamstown

Antique Gallery has many rare small items, as well as some furniture. Its neighbor, South Pointe Antiques, often has hard-to-find objects. Booth A16 has an assemblage of art deco memorabilia that is unique. Here I paid $60 for a period flashlight in almost new condition. Was it worth the price for this sleek remembrance of decades past? Who knows? I've never seen one like it before, and probably won't come across one again.

Adams Antique & Collectible Market is open seven days a week with many outdoor vendors on weekends. One antique you cannot take home with you at any price is its 1930s diner. For big stuff, go to Oley Valley Architectural

Antiques, where doors, fireplace surrounds, huge 19th-century armoires and other generally hard-to-handle goodies are found.

The big question is: Is it worth it to come here? Can you save money and find something unique? Thousands of capitalists are offering hundreds of thousands of items. I saw the same walnut dresser at different locations for $395, $495 and $695. Caveat emptor, buyer beware, is the watchword. Read up on your interests and shop around to compare price if what you seek is relatively easy to acquire. Keep alert. As one dealer told me, "You snooze, you loose."

When You Go ...

Getting there: Take Interstate 83 north to U.S. 30 west (near York); at Lancaster, take U.S. Route 222 north to Interstate 76 (the Pennsylvania Turnpike) and Exit 21. Follow signs for Route 272. Most antiques malls are located north.

Lodging: Make your lodging reservations as far in advance as possible for weekends. Motels and bed and breakfast inns fill up early.

* Adamstown Inn: $65-$110; 62 W. Main St. Adamstown 19501; 800-594-4808.

* The Black Horse Lodge and Suites: $79-$119; 2180 N. Reading Road, Denver; 717-336-7563.

* Holiday Inn: $89-$109; Exit 22, Morgantown, Pa.; 610-286-3000

Restaurants: Be prepared to wait on weekends. Try to eat at off hours if you want to avoid crowds.

* Zinn's Diner, Route 272, Denver: Pennsylvania Dutch cooking, family style. Always crowded. Take a number. Fill yourself up for less than $10; 6 a.m.-11 p.m.

* Silk City Diner, one mile south of I-76 on Route 272: Reasonable; Friday-Saturday 6 a.m.-10 p.m., Sunday 7 a.m.-9 p.m.

* Stoudt's Black Angus Steak House, Route 272, Adamstown: Certified Angus beef, German-American specialties; Monday through Saturday 5 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday noon-9 p.m.

* Renninger's, Route 272 in Adamstown: For those too busy to stop for more than five minutes, there are several snack bars. If it's fried, they serve it. Cheap, but not for gourmets.

Tips:

* Wear your most comfortable walking shoes. Carry a shopping bag or backpack if you intend to buy many small objects.

* Bring plenty of cash, travelers checks, personal checks and plastic - in that order. Many dealers do not take charge cards, or will not discount if charge cards are used.

* You can easily find yourself walking in circles. Take careful note of booth numbers, if you intend to return to a specific dealer.

* When bargaining, be flexible. Since you are dealing with many different personalities, expect many reactions. Some dealers give deep reductions in price while others seem offended that you even ask to have some dollars shaved off.

Events: Through Nov. 1, it's Oktoberfest time with beer drinking, German music and lots of food; 2 p.m.-6 p.m. at Stoudt's.

Nearby: About 25 minutes northeast is Reading, home of discount outlets galore.

Information: Exit 21 Tourist Association, P.O. Box 457T, Adamstown, Pa. 19501; Web site: www. antiques.com

An Ideal Day: It Must Be Sunday

6 a.m.: Stagger out of bed. If you're an antiques fanatic, grab your flashlight, put on really comfortable shoes and head for Shupp's Grove (last weekend is Oct. 31-Nov. 1; reopens mid-April) or Renninger's. Both have outdoor markets from the wee hours. Dealers set up for early risers.

7:30 a.m.: If you can drag yourself away from the "chase," pop in at Zinn's for breakfast.

8 a.m.: Investigate Renninger's, where dealers are arriving to open their stalls. Pick up a map of the mall, which resembles a maze.

10 a.m.: Head down the road to Stoudt's Black Angus Antiques Mall, where you can check out 300 upscale booths indoors and out. Maps are available here, too.

1 p.m.: Has hunger struck? Chug down state Route 272 (past exit 21 of the Pennsylvania Turnpike) to Silk City Diner. Great prices and a trip back to the 1950s.

2 p.m.: How are your legs holding out? There are only about 20 more multidealer malls left to visit. I choose Adams Antique and Collectible Market and General Heath's Antiques.

6 p.m.: You've earned it. Dinner at Stoudt's Black Angus Steak House.

8 p.m.: There's not much night life here, but who has the energy to move after a day like this?

Premier Pickings

* Adams Antique & Collectible Market, 2400 N. Reading Road in Denver: Open daily 10 a.m.- 5 p.m. Market open Sundays 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Outdoor setup every weekend, 250 vendors. Restored '30s diner on site. Phone: 717-335-3116; fax: 717-335-0049.

* Adamstown Antique Gallery, a quarter-mile south of Interstate 76 on Route 272: More than 300 dealers featuring fine-quality antiques; 50 museum-like rooms designed to feature high-end pieces. Open weekdays 10 a.m.- 5 p.m. (closed Wednesdays), 9 a.m.-5 p.m. weekends; 717-335-3435.

* Adamstown Antique Mall, Route 272 at traffic light in Adamstown: Fine variety of antiques large and small. Monday, Thursday and Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; 717-484-0464.

* Alternative Furnishings, 1.5 miles north of Adamstown on U.S. Route 222: Antiques for interiors and gardens. 19th- and 20th-century antiques and decorative furnishings. A decorators source; call for store hours; 610-796-2990.

* Antiques Showcase at the Black Horse, 2272 N. Reading Road, Denver: 300 dealers from North America and Western Europe displaying quality antiques and select collectibles for sale at dealer prices; open daily; 717-335-3300.

* Clock Tower Antiques, located directly behind the Stoudt's Black Angus complex on Route 272 in Adamstown: 10 individual shops and 100-showcase arcade; open daily; 717-484-2757.

* The Country French Collection, Route 272, Adamstown: Housed in an 18th-century stone barn, it brims with antique furniture hand-picked in France. Open Monday, Thursday and Friday, noon-5 p.m.; weekends, 10 a.m.- 5 p.m.; 717-484-0200.

* Covered Bridge Antiques, Route 272, Denver: Specializing in advertising, glassware, primitives, folk art, holiday, textiles, Amish clothing, toys, art pottery and furniture; open daily, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; 717-336-7482.

* Exit 21 Antiques and Collectables, located next to Zinn's Diner on Route 272: 37 lighted cases; open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; 717-336-7482.

* General Heath's Antiques, Route 272 in Adamstown: Quality antiques displayed in comfortable room settings and brightly lighted showcases; 70 dealers; open Wednesday through Monday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; 717-484-1300.

* Greenwood Antique Center, 2455 N. Reading Road, Route 272, Adamstown: 300 dealers showcasing antiques and collectibles; open Monday through Thursday 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; 717-335-3377.

* Heritage Antique Center I, one mile north of I-76 on Route 272 in Adamstown: 65 dealers in a 10,000-square-foot mall; air-conditioned; open daily; 717-484-4646.

* Heritage II, two miles south of I-76 on Route 272: 140 dealers in 15,000-square-foot mall; air-conditioned; open daily; 717-336-0888.

* Lancaster County Antique and Collectible Market, one-half mile north of I-76 on Route 272 in Denver: Full range of finished and unfinished antiques and collectibles; 70 dealers; open Monday through Thursday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. and Sunday, 9 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; 717-336-2701.

* Meade Antiques, Routes 272 and 897 in Adamstown: Large selection of fine 18th- and 19th-century antique furniture; choice accessories housed on historic property; weekends 11 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; 717-484-0669.

* Oley Valley Architectural Antiques, 2453 N. Reading Road: Victorian furniture, stained glass windows and doors, fireplace mantels, iron beds, tables, gates, armoires; open Thursday through Monday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 717-335-3585.

* Rennniger's Antique Market, Route 272 in Adamstown: 375 dealers outdoors specializing in most categories of antiques and collectibles; open Sundays 7:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; 717-336-2177.

* Shupp's Grove, just off state Route 897 at Willow Street: An antiques market since 1962 with acres and acres of antiques and collectibles; open Saturdays and Sundays, April through October, 7 a.m.-5 p.m.; 717-484-4115.

* South Pointe Antiques, one block south of I-76 on Route 272: 135 dealers showcasing quality antiques; Thursdays, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Fridays, 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; Mondays, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Phone/fax: 717-484-1026; online: mkowale19ol.com.

* Stoudt's Black Angus Antiques Mall, Route 272, Adamstown: More than 200 indoor dealers and more than 100 outdoor dealers. Furniture, toys, estate jewelry, lighting, crystal, linens, china glassware, coins; open Sundays, 7:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; 717-484-4385.

* Ultracar Plaza Automotive Antiques and Collectibles, 22 Denver Road: Dealers in hood ornaments, license plates, toy cars, full-size cars, sales literature, pedal cars, gas pumps and other auto memorabilia; open Monday, Thursday and Saturday 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; phone: 717-484-0414, fax: 717-336-3728.

* Weaver's Antique Mall, Business Route 222 North, Berks County: More than 200 quality dealers; open Thursday through Monday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 610-777-8535.

Pub Date: 10/18/98