While visiting a remote Turkish village several years ago, I learned to make an amazing, nearly effortless casserole - what the Turks call guvec. The recipe called for thick chunks of lamb layered with eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes and bay leaves, all in a deep clay pot. We sealed it tight and carried it down to the village baker's wood oven, where it stewed gently all afternoon.

It was a dish I'd nearly forgotten when our editor-in-chief suggested that I develop some slow-cooker recipes.

I have to admit that my response was a little, well, slow. The term "slow cooker" conjured more images of avocado-colored crockpots and "stews" of indistinguishable gray mush than anything else. But then I thought of that savory lamb, tending itself, being flavored with its own juices while my friends and I rested in the late-day heat.

So I started experimenting and learned a lot about what slow cookers do exceptionally well - tenderizing inexpensive, lean cuts of meat, for instance - and a few things they just aren't up to.

Try any of these recipes: I can't promise the romance of fetching dinner from a communal oven in the Middle East, but I guarantee you'll have a succulent supper and plenty of time to dream.

Turkish Lamb and Vegetable Stew

Makes about 8 servings

1 1/2 pounds lean boneless leg of lamb, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1 14-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained

1 large all-purpose potato, preferably Yukon Gold, peeled and cut into 3/8-inch-thick slices

1/2 pound green beans, trimmed

1 small eggplant, cut into 3/8-inch-thick slices

1 medium zucchini, cut into 3/8-inch-thick slices

6 bay leaves

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Season lamb with 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. In a large, heavy skillet, heat 1/2 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add half the lamb and sear, turning, until well-browned, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a 3 1/2-quart slow cooker. Add another 1/2 tablespoon oil to skillet and brown remaining lamb. Add to slow cooker.

Add remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil to skillet and reduce heat to medium. Add onions and cook, stirring, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and oregano; cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Add tomatoes and bring to a simmer, mashing with a potato masher or fork. Remove from heat and spoon half the mixture over the lamb.

Arrange potatoes in a layer in the pot; season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Add green beans, followed by eggplant and zucchini, seasoning each layer with 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Spread remaining tomato-onion mixture over vegetables. Top with bay leaves.

Cover and cook on high until lamb and vegetables are very

tender, about 4 hours. Discard bay leaves. (The stew will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Reheat before serving.) Serve hot, garnished with parsley.

Make it a meal: Serve with rice and lots of crusty bread.

Per serving: 225 calories, 19 grams protein, 7 grams fat (2 grams saturated fat), 22 grams carbohydrate, 525 milligrams sodium, 50 milligrams cholesterol, 4 grams fiber

Pot Roast With Carmelized Onion Gravy

Makes about 14 servings, with 4 cups gravy

1 4-pound boneless top or bottom round beef roast, trimmed of fat, twine on

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1/2 cup brewed coffee or 1 teaspoon instant coffee granules dissolved in 1/2 cup boiling water

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon water

Season beef with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy skillet, heat 1/2 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add beef and sear until well-browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a 3 1/2-quart slow cooker.

Add remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil to skillet; reduce heat to medium. Add onions and cook, stirring, until softened and golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Add garlic and thyme; cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Stir in coffee and vinegar; pour onion mixture over beef.

Cover and cook on high until beef is tender but not falling apart, about 4 1/2 hours. Transfer beef to a cutting board, tent with foil and let rest for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour juices from slow cooker into a medium saucepan. Skim off fat. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. In a small bowl, mix cornstarch and water. Add to pan.

Cook, whisking constantly, until gravy has thickened slightly, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove twine from beef and carve. Serve with gravy. (Leftovers will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Reheat meat in gravy.)

Make it a meal: Serve with roasted carrots and parsnips and mashed potatoes.

Per serving: 180 calories, 26 grams protein, 6 grams fat (1.7 grams saturated fat), 5 grams carbohydrate, 60 milligrams sodium, 67 milligrams cholesterol, 1 gram fiber

Yankee Bean Pot

Makes 12 servings

1 pound dried navy or great Northern beans

1 teaspoon canola oil

2 medium onions, chopped

4 ounces Canadian-style bacon, diced (3/4 cup)

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

pinch of crushed red pepper

1/4 cup pure maple syrup or molasses

1/4 cup tomato ketchup

2 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon dry mustard

1/2 pound smoked ham hock, pork neck bones or turkey wings (optional)

3 cups boiling water

2 bay leaves

1 to 2 tablespoons cider vinegar

hot sauce, such as Tabasco, to taste

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a large bowl, cover beans with cold water. Let soak for at least 8 hours or preferably overnight. (Alternatively, in a large pot, cover beans with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand for 1 hour.)

Drain and rinse beans. Place in a 3 1/2-quart slow cooker.In a large nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onions and bacon; cook, stirring often, until onions are softened and light golden, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, thyme and crushed red pepper; cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Add to beans.

Add maple syrup (or molasses), ketchup, Worcestershire and mustard to beans; stir to combine. Bury ham hock (or neck bones or turkey wings), if using, in the beans. Add boiling water HTC and top with bay leaves.

Cover and cook until beans are tender, about 4 1/2 hours on high or about 11 hours on low. Remove bay leaves and bones. Season with vinegar, hot sauce, salt and pepper. (The beans will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.) Serve hot.

Per serving: 160 calories, 9 grams protein, 2 grams fat (0.2 gram saturated fat), 29 grams carbohydrate, 210 milligrams sodium, 4 milligrams cholesterol, 5 grams fiber

Pub Date: 10/14/98