1996 Rancho Zabaco Russian River Valley Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($14)

This unfiltered, barrel-fermented chardonnay competes quite ably with wines in the $20-$25 price bracket. It offers layers of bright, appley, toasty, yeasty flavors, seasoned judiciously with the sweet vanilla of new French oak. The length and grip are excellent for wine in its price range. This wine will pair marvelously with salmon, ham, chicken or pasta dishes.

Pub Date: 10/07/98

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