Somewhere in the back of the pantry, on that top shelf you ignore, lurks a can of something dating from the war - the world war.

Down there in the lettuce drawer, buried under parsley that garnished the Easter ham, sit those cranberries from Thanksgiving.

And the spices on the counter, gray in their jars, glowed bright years ago when you got the spice rack as a wedding gift.

Isn't it time for a little kitchen cleaning? You'll become more organized. If you can see what's on hand, meal planning becomes easier. Foraging in the fridge becomes a thing of the past. Leftovers get used promptly.

Don't become a victim of restaurant foam containers piling up, of impulse buys from the market.

"It's like junk mail," says Pat McBride-Burris, a professional organizer. "In the kitchen, things only last so long. Yet we're always bringing more in, so if we don't periodically go through it, the space gets saturated. And that's when people get disorganized."

Step 1: Take charge - toss out old food. Get ruthless. Dump the molding takeout leftovers (so what if your husband brought them home from your anniversary dinner) and the 3-year-old frozen game hen (do you want to eat 3-year-old frozen game hen?).

By holding onto old food, you may risk good taste, your health or both.

Throwing out food "can really be hard for a lot of people. They don't think it can go bad," McBride-Burris says.

Food loses flavor and quality the longer it sits.

Take seriously expiration dates stamped on cans.

According to the Steel Packing Council, canned foods can be stored up to two years after purchase. But after a year, many canned goods begin deteriorating. For example, canned fruit juice loses about 25 percent of its vitamin C, while canned asparagus loses vitamins and fades to a pale yellow after about a year, according to "Keeping Food Fresh" by Janet Bailey (Perennial Library, $14).

Use canned asparagus, beets, citrus fruits, green beans, fruit juices, pickles, peppers, sauerkraut, mixed fruits and tomato products within six months, Bailey says.

If you can't find an expiration date on a product, label it yourself. McBride-Burris labels her spices with the month and year she bought them, because dried herbs and spices are especially susceptible to heat, light and air.

Cans that are dentbuckled should be tossed. Also toss jars that are leaking, or containers that have strange odors when opened. You could be risking botulism, which - though rare - has a fatality rate of about 65 percent, Bailey says.

With refrigerated products, pay attention to "sell by" dates. Those are not expiration dates, but a guide for retailers on when to remove the product from their shelves. Depending on the product, shelf life varies once you bring the product home. Unopened milk, for example, is fresh for another week beyond the carton date if properly refrigerated at 40 degrees, says Adri Boudewyn, chief executive officer of the California Milk Advisory Board.

Foods that have been improperly stowed in the freezer develop freezer burn - telltale ice crystals cover the food as the food dries out and flavor and texture suffer. Packaging needs to be airtight.

Use this timetable from "The Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook" (Hearst Books, $30) as a storage guide:

* Raw poultry, fish and meat: two-three days in the refrigerator, three-six months in the freezer

* Raw ground meat or poultry: one-two days in the refrigerator, three months in the freezer

* Cooked whole roasts or whole poultry: two-three days in the refrigerator, nine months in the freezer

* Cooked poultry pieces: one-two days in the refrigerator; one month in the freezer

* Bread: three months in the freezer

* Ice cream: one-two months in the freezer

* Soups and stews: two-three days in the refrigerator, one-three months in the freezer

* Casseroles: two-three days in the refrigerator, two-four weeks in the freezer

* Cookies: six-eight months in the freezer

Step 2: Use it up and move it out.

McBride-Burris calls her leftovers "planned-overs."

She might prepare a double batch of a dinner one night and eat the rest the next day - as a lunch or dinner, with variations.

If you grill chicken one night, use the extra the next day cut into strips atop tossed greens. Rice for the stir-fry one night can become a pudding for dessert (or breakfast) the next day.

Think of those restaurant leftovers and how you can use them up. If nothing else, save money and time by packing them as a lunch.

Scan the vegetable bin for stray mushrooms, carrots, an asparagus stalk or two, and add them to soups, rice, salads. Rub aging spices between your fingers to maximize their flavor before using, or saute them in butter before adding to your recipes. But have limits.

"A stock is not a catchall for old or spoiled vegetables, although you can use trimmings, last week's carrots, mushrooms with open caps," writes Deborah Madison in "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" (Broadway Books, $40).

When in doubt, she says, "Ask yourself, 'Would I eat this?' If not, don't put it in the stock."

Develop a couple of meals you can make in a pinch from pantry ingredients you always have on hand - an easy soup, a quick pasta - something that employs canned beans, canned tomatoes, dried herbs. Post the menus on the inside of the pantry door, if need be, for a reminder.

Alicia Ross, co-author with Beverly Mills of "Desperation Dinners!" (Workman Publishing, $13.95), resorts to those little odd jars of sauces she gets as food gifts to clean out the pantry and toss together a quick meal.

"They're like the jewels of your collections," she says. "They can add a burst of flavor tossed with plain potatoes, plain rice."

Afraid of wasting? Develop a compost pile, suggests Elaine Corn, who in her award-winning "Now You're Cooking" (Harlow & Ratner, $24.95) guides novice cooks through kitchen setup and meal making. You won't feel guilty.

Or to celebrate your clean kitchen - and help you clean the kitchen - throw a party.

A freezer party, Corn suggests.

"[Cook] everything that's in there that you've forgotten about," she says. "You might find a white truffle in there, you might find a waffle in there. ... You can serve all these wild things."

Step 3: Stop the clutter.

When you first set up a kitchen, you're organized. Then things go downhill.

"People go to the store and buy the same thing over and over again," McBride-Burris says. "They don't know they already have it, and then it gets scattered."

You also begin flinging things in cupboards, creating a jumble.

Start over. Take everything from cupboards, if need be, and rearrange. Group like things together: tomato products, cans of beans, canned fish, soups, dry mixes, pasta and rice, baking ingredients, cereals, quick-meal-makers, such as jars of sauce and salsa.

Arrange items in the cupboards so you can see them. Use little bins and baskets to hold small items - snacks, spices, packages of dry mix. Invest in small stacking shelves, a Lazy Susan, extending shelves, containers that mount on the inside of pantry or cupboard doors. They needn't cost a lot, McBride-Burris says, and will save you headaches.

If you're unable to see your ingredients, she says, it's out of sight, out of mind. And the pile begins.

Need more cupboard space? Consider hauling pots and pans out into view, maybe hanging them decoratively on the wall or from the ceiling. Convert those cupboards to food storage. The fondue pot, the ice-cream maker, the bread machine - those seldom-used appliances - can go in the garage.

Corn found that converting her hall closet into a pantry made life much easier.

Another idea: Store some items, such as rice and pasta, in decorative jars on the counter instead of in the cupboard.

"That way it's within reach," Corn says. "I follow my motto: 'I don't reach, I don't bend.' So all that stuff is there, and the stuff I don't need every day is socked away into a compartmentalized area."

The fridge and the freezer, of course, are another can of worms; even Corn, who is a food professional and married to a food professional (a chef), scratches her head when it comes to organizing the cooler.

"It's a constant battle - I just try to keep things in certain places," she says.

The recipes on the right are a few ideas for tossing together a dish from your fridge or pantry.

Dinner Huevos in a Hurry

Makes 4 servings

1 teaspoon olive oil, divided use

L 2 cups frozen green, red and yellow bell pepper stir-fry mix

10 large eggs

1/4 cup reduced-fat sour cream

4 large (10-inch) flour tortillas

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can Mexican-style stewed tomatoes

3/4 cup bottled salsa

1 cup (4 ounces) shredded cheese, such as Monterey Jack, Cheddar or colby, or combination of cheeses

Preheat broiler.

Heat 1/2 teaspoon of oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add pepper stir-fry mix and cook until defrosted and soft, about 2 minutes, stirring once or twice. Meanwhile, break eggs into a 2-quart or larger bowl and beat with a whisk until light and frothy.

With a slotted spoon, remove vegetables to a small bowl. Discard any juice left in the pan, then - taking care not to burn yourself - wipe out the skillet using several layers of paper towels.

Heat remaining 1/2 teaspoon oil in same skillet over medium heat. Add eggs and stir until soft- or medium-scrambled, about 5 minutes. Drain any accumulated juice from the reserved peppers and add them to the eggs. Add the sour cream and stir lightly to incorporate. Remove skillet from heat.

Stack the tortillas and microwave them, uncovered, on high, until warmed through, about 45 seconds to 1 minute. Meanwhile, coat a 13-inch-by-9-inch baking dish with cooking-oil spray. Lay the tortillas out flat and spread 1/4 of the egg mixture in the middle of each, then roll it up, tucking in the ends, burrito-style. As each tortilla is rolled, carefully place it in the baking dish. Spoon the tomatoes and salsa evenly over all and sprinkle with the cheese.

Broil the casserole until the cheese melts and bubbles, 2-3 minutes. Serve at once.

- From "Desperation Dinners: Home-Cooked Meals for Frantic Families in 20 Minutes Flat" by Beverly Mills and Alicia Ross (Workman, $13.95)

Per serving: 597 calories, 29.6 grams fat, 12.6 grams saturated fat, 572 milligrams cholesterol, 1,291 milligrams sodium, 45 percent calories from fat

Quick Stock

Makes about 6 cups

2 teaspoons vegetable or olive oil

1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 carrot, coarsely chopped

1 celery rib, coarsely chopped

trimmings from the soup vegetables, rinsed; see note

2 bay leaves and several thyme sprigs or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

4 or more garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

8 parsley branches, including the stems, or a small handful of stems

additional herbs and spices appropriate for the soup

salt

Note: Making a quick stock is "relaxed and improvisational," writes author Deborah Madison. Depending on the recipe that you'll be adding the stock to, you can vary the vegetables being used. If the main soup recipe calls for leeks, for instance, the inner greens can be chopped and added to the stock. Here's where you can also use up some of those odd vegetables rolling around in the vegetable drawer. A mushroom or two can be tossed in, along with some green onion tops, some chopped, leftover shallots, stems of leafy green vegetables such as chard. You might also add extra amounts of herbs called for in the main soup recipe. Avoid ingredients such as turnips, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, onion skins, artichoke trimmings and any spoiled vegetables.

Heat the oil over high heat and add the onion, carrot and celery. While they're browning, peel the vegetables and add the trimmings to the soup along with the aromatics. Stir occasionally.

After about 10 minutes, add 2 teaspoons of salt and 2 quarts cold water and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, 25-35 minutes. As soon as the stock is finished, strain the stock through a clean sieve into a container. Freeze stock in usable quantities, such as 1 cup portions, to have on hand when needed.

- From "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" by Deborah Madison (Broadway Books, $40)

Per cup: 26 calories, 1.6 grams fat, 0.2 grams saturated fat, no cholesterol, 772 milligrams sodium, 51 percent calories from fat

Speedy Black Bean Soup

Makes 6 servings

1 teaspoon olive oil

3/4 cup frozen chopped onions

2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, divided use

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can fat-free chicken broth

1 (15 1/4-ounce) can corn kernels, drained

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can Mexican-style stewed tomatoes

3 bay leaves

1 teaspoon bottled minced garlic

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

Heat oil in 4 1/2-quart Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until slightly brown, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, pour 1 can of the beans and their liquid into a large cereal bowl. Using the back of a serving-size spoon, mash the beans against the sides and bottom of the bowl until the beans are broken up and pasty.

Raise the heat under the pot to high and add the chicken broth, mashed beans and the can of whole beans and its liquid. Stir well. Add the drained corn, stewed tomatoes, bay leaves, garlic, thyme, vinegar and cumin. Cover the pot and bring the soup to a boil.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer to let the flavors blend, 8

minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking. Remove from the heat and serve.

- From "Desperation Dinners: Home-Cooked Meals for Frantic Families in 20 Minutes Flat" by Beverly Mills and Alicia Ross (Workman, $13.95)

Per serving: 220 calories, 2.6 grams fat, 0.2 grams saturated fat, no cholesterol, 995 milligrams sodium, 10 percent calories from fat

Fennel and Leek Soup With Fennel Greens

Makes 4-6 servings

2 fennel bulbs, 1-1 1/4 pounds

2 medium leeks, white parts plus an inch of the greens, chopped

1 small potato, peeled and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons olive oil or butter

1 onion, chopped

salt and fresh ground pepper

6 cups Quick Stock or water, divided use; see note

1/3 cup cream (optional)

Note: Use the trimmings of the vegetables for this soup in the stock. See Quick Stock recipe, elsewhere on this page, and BTC preliminaries, below.

Preliminaries: Remove the tough outer layers of the fennel and use them in the stock, along with 1 cup chopped stalks, 2 cups chopped leek greens, the leek roots and the potato skins. Chop 1/2 cup of the fennel greens and reserve.

Quarter the fennel bulbs, remove the core if tough, and thinly slice crosswise. Warm the oil in a soup pot and add the onion, fennel, leek, potato, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 cup of the strained stock. Cover and stew over medium heat 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the remaining stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, until the fennel is tender, 15-20 minutes more. Stir in the cream, if using, and the reserved fennel greens. Taste for salt, season with pepper and serve.

- From "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" by Deborah Madison (Broadway Books, $40)

Per serving, without cream: 166 calories, 7.7 grams fat, 1.0 grams saturated fat, no cholesterol, 938 milligrams sodium, 39 percent calories from fat

Leftover-Rice Pudding

Makes 4 servings

2 cups milk

1 cup cooked rice

2 tablespoons sugar

1 cinnamon stick (3 inches) or 1/8 teaspoon ground

1/4 cup raisins or dried cherries

In a 3-quart saucepan, heat milk, rice, sugar and cinnamon stick to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low; boil gently 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in raisins or dried cherries during last 5 minutes of cooking. Remove from heat. Discard cinnamon stick. Serve warm, or cover and refrigerate to serve cold later.

- From "The Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook" (Hearst Books, $30)

Per serving: 150 calories, 4 grams fat, 3 grams saturated fat, 17 milligrams cholesterol, 60 milligrams sodium, 24 percent calories from fat

Pub Date: 9/30/98