1995 Fetzer Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast ($18).

This complex, elegant, concentrated wine with an abundance of black cherry fruit is an excellent choice for a special occasion. It offers a layering of flavors more characteristic of a $30 cabernet - with hints of chocolate and herbs. The length and acidity are excellent, and while the wine is ready to drink now, it should age gracefully for five or six years.

Pub Date: 9/16/98