Even if sausage doesn't fit the profile of health food, there's something to be said for the health benefits of savoring something so highly flavored and pleasurable - in moderation, of course.

Contributing to sausage's liberation from the list of taboo foods are leaner versions (made from turkey, chicken and duck) of traditionally high-fat varieties, including Italian link sausage and Cajun andouille.

Alongside eggs or added to baked beans, soup, stuffings, rice, pizza, polenta and pasta, sausage has a satisfying heartiness about it that's hard to resist.

A favorite indulgence for aficionados of Italian sausage is a well-made submarine: grilled Italian links, sweet or hot, over roasted peppers and onions, all of it piled onto soft Italian or French bread.

Cole Publishing Group

Italian Sausage Sandwiches

Serves 4

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound hot or sweet Italian sausage

2 medium onions, sliced into 1/3-inch rings

2 tablespoons crushed garlic

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 hot frying peppers or hot chilies (optional)

1 (8-ounce) jar roasted red bell peppers, drained, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch strips

2 teaspoons capers, drained (optional)

1 large loaf Italian bread

8 bottled pepperoncini peppers, drained (optional)

anchovy strips (optional)

Brush skillet with some of the oil and cook sausages over medium heat until brown, turning and pricking skins occasionally. Drain on paper towels, slice lengthwise and keep warm.

In another skillet over medium heat, warm remaining oil. Saute onion, garlic, oregano and pepper, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender (about 8 minutes). Add frying peppers, if used, and saute until tender (about 10 minutes). Add roasted red bell peppers and cook another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in capers, if used.

Cut bread crossways into 4 sandwich-sized slices. Cut each slice lengthwise into 2 long halves. Spoon vegetables onto 4 slices of bread. Add pepperoncini, if used. Top with halved sausage, anchovy strips, if used, and 4 remaining slices of bread. Serve immediately.

Pub Date: 9/06/98