1996 Bois du Renard Merlot, Vin de Pays d'Oc ($10). This fruity, medium-bodied merlot from the south of France offers a subtle blend of black cherry, chocolate and blueberry flavors - the latter two more typically found in a deeply concentrated wine. While the wine is no blockbuster, it offers good length and intensity and none of the "off" flavors that often plague inexpensive merlot. For those who want a more weighty, meaty wine, Bois du Renard also makes a lush, supple 1996 syrah for about $8.

Pub Date: 8/26/98