Call us brave or foolish. Craving a break from a lemming-like pilgrimage to the shore this summer, our family of five booked a place in the mountains, sight unseen. Having thumbed through a Realtor's flier in March, we found lakefront rentals cheaper than comparable oceanfront units. So, promptly, we booked an A-frame cottage on Deep Creek Lake and gladly paid the extra security deposit so that our Labrador retrievers could accompany us.

Great outdoors, here we come. We posted the paragraph describing the "Islamorada" on our refrigerator door and counted down the weeks.

"You booked a place blindly?" a friend inquired in April.

I tried to camouflage my knee-jerk reaction with cliches about crisp mountain air and a laid-back pace.

Then, a cool May triggered another tinge of doubt, and we began to long for moist ocean breezes. But by late June, Baltimore's weather forecast mirrored Miami's, and radio traffic reports began to include backups on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. On a 90-something- degree day in Charm City, we hitched up our 17-foot Boston Whaler, piled the two dogs and three kids into the car and headed west for the cool hills of Garrett County.

Our instincts served us well. Deep Creek Lake broke the dreaded summer vacation rut and introduced us to a slower-paced, secluded sliver of Maryland. It felt as if we had escaped to Maine in a fraction of the required driving time.

What should have been a three-hour car ride took us about four hours. Blame our aging minivan's resistance to towing a boat up the Allegheny Plateau. I think we willed the 8-year-old Mazda up the incline near Rocky Gap State Park along Interstate 68 and on through the hills past Cumberland and Frostburg. The old girl revved her engine beyond 5,000 revolutions per minute on those stretches. But she seemed to coast down U.S. 219, cruising uneventfully through Accident (I still want my photo snapped beside the town-limits sign) and on to McHenry, site of our rental office. Here, we collected keys and printed directions to our rental.

Our anticipation swelled during the brief, winding drive from the realtor's office to the Islamorada, but sweet relief followed. With its native stone fireplace and skylights, the chalet - nestled in a wooded acre - oozed rustic charm. Plunked in a stand of hemlock trees, it was framed by blooming rhododendron and mountain laurel. Cliched or not, the air was crystal clear. A thread of a waterfall trickled outside the kitchen window.

Children and dogs followed Mom and Dad down the steps from the deck, then headed toward the lakefront along a path through hostas and ferns. (There was no lawn). My husband and I relaxed on a cedar bench swing perched above a finger of a cove. The kids, meanwhile, scampered toward boulders of sandstone scattered in the woods.

This seemed heavenly, especially after driving for hours with dogs and children. Then came a sudden burst of splashes. My husband, Rob, and I were jolted back into responsible parenting mode, but, thankfully, only briefly. The dogs - not the kids - had decided to swim unsupervised.

First things first

A few preliminaries consumed that first afternoon at Deep Creek Lake. We launched the boat at the boat ramp in the lake's state park (some marinas also have boat launches), then got our bearings on the water and drove the boat to the dock behind our house. Someone had to fetch groceries. Serendipitously, our location was near the Arrowhead Market, a small but full-service grocery complete with gourmet takeout and freshly cut steaks. Planning ahead for a rainy day, I made note of the new movie theaters across the street.

Chores behind us, we rustled up a grilled dinner (the Islamorada had both a charcoal and electric grill) then squeaked in a presunset cruise around the lake. It took awhile. Deep Creek is the largest freshwater lake in Maryland, 12 miles long and covering 3,900 acres.

That 3,900 acres is accompanied by 65 miles of mostly wooded shoreline. While my family discussed the week's potential for water sports and fishing, I kicked back and relished the day's last rays of sunshine while gazing at the stately hills. Except for a few palatial homes on partially sheared peaks, most chalets and cabins were tastefully hidden among the trees. Not exactly the Maine woods, but for Baltimore suburbanites, this looked downright rustic.

After reaching the dam that created Deep Creek Lake 73 years ago, we zipped back to our dock and headed inside. The kids lobbied for and won a few rounds of Go Fish and checkers, then retired with the dogs. Mom and Dad unpacked novels and read by the fireplace.

Before turning in, we checked out the entries other tenants had made in our chalet owner's guest book. Lots of folks reported swimming with their dogs, exploring nearby state parks and making caloric trips to the local ice cream parlor. Only one party mentioned a bear sighting. We headed to bed in our loft and drifted to sleep watching fireflies blink on and off outside the cathedral window.

Although there are alternatives to boating, you certainly can maximize your fun at Deep Creek Lake if you bring a boat or rent one. (Our brochure listed seven sources for boat rentals here.) Pontoons, powerboats, bass boats and personal watercraft (i.e., jet skis) dominated the water traffic in the northern section of the lake where we stayed.

As for nonmotorized vessels, canoes commonly hugged the shores of coves. One afternoon at Deep Creek State Park, we rather enjoyed spying on a father-son team of kayakers perfecting the trademark kayak roll under the water and back up again.

Whitewater rafting and kayaking are available on local rivers, such as the Youghiogheny (the Yuck) and the Savage. Local outfitters rent vessels and supply guides to assist you through class IV and V rapids (VI is the toughest) with names like Rocky III and Meat Cleaver. Rafting floats down calmer river waters are also available.

Venturing south of the Glendale Bridge during an afternoon of boating, we discovered that sailboats seemed to cluster in Deep Creek Lake's southern waters. Checking a brochure back in the chalet that night, I confirmed this suspicion and read that sailing races are held there on Saturdays and Sundays from Memorial Day until Labor Day. All types of boats are allowed to anchor nearby and watch. Sailing lessons are available.

Cold and deep

Novices at water sports, we eventually mustered the nerve to tether a sturdy raft to the rear of our boat so that the kids and could take turns getting towed through the tannin-stained lake water. Samantha, 7, proved to be our bravest raft rider, achieving a top rafting speed of 21 rpms. I suppose the water skiers considered us sissies. Let them. Deep Creek Lake's maximum depth is 72 feet, and the average depth is 26 feet. If that doesn't inspire caution, submerse yourself in that brisk water, which in midsummer averages 73 degrees.

An early-summer heat wave actually made the chilly lake water palatable. Heat wave is a relative term, by the way. While the temperature topped 90 in Baltimore, it inched toward 85 degrees at Deep Creek Lake. We were comfortable despite a lack of air conditioning in our chalet.

Everyone in our family found a favorite pastime on our private lakefront acre. Hannah, 6, could have fed the ducks at our dock all day. Sam and 9-year-old Ben enjoyed leaping from the dock with Labradors Oscar and Sally. I liked to settle into the swing out back with an Ann Tyler novel. Fulfilling a lifelong dream, Rob was forever planning boat trips to lakefront restaurants. But when we all craved a sandy, sloped beach, we set out for Deep Creek Lake State Park.

Our boat ride to the state park, which sits on the northeast side of the lake, took about 15 minutes. Once there, we anchored and waded to one of two beaches for some swimming and sand-castle building. This quickly became a favorite afternoon routine. Maybe it was the novelty of arriving at the beach by boat, or maybe it was the park's superb playground. My kids raved over the climbing equipment and seesaw. We all appreciated the clean grounds, picnic tables and restrooms. Deep Creek Lake State Park also has biking and hiking trails, a campground and pet loop.

It seemed mandatory that we try fishing (emphasis on try). Bass, trout, pickerel, northern pike, yellow perch and walleye lurk somewhere in the waters of Deep Creek Lake. In our boat, we searched in vain for a good spot to nab them. Our only catch, however, was a 1-pound perch my husband caught and released from our dock. I suspect that we were the exception, not the rule. When we asked another fisherman about his luck on the water that day, he beamed and pointed to a bucketful of fish.

Knowing when to cut our losses, we sought adventure in other venues. Often, we spent a half-day exploring sights in the area, reserving the other half for boating and swimming.

Our favorite side trip was to Swallow Falls State Park, which stretches along the Youghiogheny River just a couple of miles west of Deep Creek Lake's westernmost cove. Swallow Falls is small for a state park but packed with striking scenery. Here, you can hike the trail through a 300-year-old virgin hemlock forest, stand under towering sandstone formations and ogle three spectacular waterfalls - including Muddy Creek Falls, the state's largest cascade.

We climbed the wooden staircase beside the great falls, then took the mandatory photos of various family members stepping out toward the edge of the flat rock on top. For me, the misty vista and the roar of water crashing from the 64-foot cliff topped a beach-boardwalk ride any day. The kids loved it, too, especially since we capped the hike with ice cream from the Lakeside Creamery's mobile unit in the parking lot.

Less adrenaline pumping, yet stunning in its own way was Cranesville Swamp, a bog on the Maryland-West Virginia border. Owned by the Nature Conservancy, the bog dates from the Ice Age and contains plant and animal species found nowhere else in Maryland. Imagine a bowl of mushy land surrounded by small mountains.- is this the complete sentence?

I recited facts about the site from my trail book as we traipsed along the primitive path through the woods toward the boardwalk above the bog. When we stopped to pick wild blueberries in the woods, we flashed to Robert McCloskey's children's classic, "Blueberries for Sal." Ironically, I noted that black bears frequented this preserve. We abruptly resumed our hike.

At the boardwalk, the kids and I kneeled to scour the bog surface for the sundew, a minuscule but carnivorous plant. There were thousands of them, but we would have missed them if we hadn't gotten on all fours. To Ben's dismay, we didn't witness a bug's execution. Still, we were awed to learn that insects land on the sundew's sticky leaves, then succumb to the plant's enzymes, which digest the carcass.

My favorite brush with nature came not in a forest or bog, but in an art gallery on one of our last days of vacation. During a drizzly morning, we drove to the Windrush Gallery in Friendsville (301-746-4083). The town sits along the Youghiogheny River about 12 miles north of Deep Creek Lake.

The gallery - in a Victorian home with perennials blooming out front - features all types of media, including watercolors, stained glass and jewelry. The barefoot proprietor greeted us in the foyer, tossed a Cowboy Junkies C.D. on her stereo, and introduced us to her cat before leaving us to browse.

I strayed from the visionary art in the foyer and explored a side room brimming with watercolors. But a startled a meeeow from the cat and shrieks of laughter from the kids summoned me back. In the foyer, I found kitty and kids staring at a spot between two pictures. There - pressed against a wall and trembling with fear - was a baby bat.

Undaunted, the proprietor joined us to gape. She pointed to an abandoned house up the block, telling us its attic is host to hundreds of bats. She urged us to come back at dusk to watch them make their daily swoop over the Yough.

It was yet another moment welcomed by a family seeking a break from the vacation routine.

AN IDEAL DAY

7 a.m.: No, you didn't set the alarm. That's the sound of woodland birds and small mammals chattering at the sunrise. Roll over and go back to sleep until you're ready for breakfast.

9:30 a.m.: Fuel up on bagels, granola and fresh berries. Try dining under the canopy of hemlock branches draped over your deck. Careful, the combination of fresh coffee and fresh air can be addictive.

10 a.m.: Head for your dock, toss a tennis ball into the lake, and let your dog swim for it. Feed the ducks while you're at it.

10:30 a.m.: Toss a camera, some cereal bars and a water bottle into a backpack, and set out for Swallow Falls State Park. Hike the 1.25-mile loop along the Youghiogheny River, and take in the three waterfalls there (Tolliver Falls, Swallow Falls and Maryland's largest, Muddy Creek Falls). Savor the cool mist from each waterfall, and pity those poor souls fighting the heat and crowds in Ocean City.

1 p.m.: Return to your rental, put swimsuits on under your clothing and board your boat. Head for Trader's Cafe and order the turkey club (they baked the turkey fresh this morning). Force the kids to share their fries. They'll need room for the colossal chocolate-chip cookie that comes with their meals.

1:45 p.m.: Let the kids blow their allowances at the Trading Post, a souvenir haven. Spring for a Deep Creek Lake T-shirt for yourself.

2 p.m.: Take your boat out for water-skiing or whatever.

3 p.m.: Anchor off Deep Creek Lake State Park. Swim to shore, and enjoy the beach and playground. Be sure to take a couple of bucks for the soda machines.

6:30 p.m.: Barbecue your dinner, and again, dine on your deck. Don't forget to light the citronella.

7:30 p.m.: Rustle everyone into the car, and head for the Lakeside Creamery, locally renowned for its ice cream, made on the premises.

8:30 p.m.: Assuming the running lights work, board your boat for a brief evening cruise. Anchor anywhere, and gaze at the stars.

WHEN YOU GO

Getting there: Deep Creek Lake is 188 miles west of Baltimore, about a three-hour drive. Take Interstate 70 West. At Hancock, exit to Interstate 68 West. Then, take U.S. 219 South, which becomes Garrett Highway at the lake.

Accommodations: We rented a chalet through Mountain Lake Rentals, 800-846-7368. Our lakefront three-bedroom, two-bath rents for $1,175 weekly during summer's peak. Late summer and early summer rates are moderately cheaper. Winter, spring and fall rates are as much as $450 cheaper, and weekend rentals are also available.

Looking for a bed and breakfast inn?

* Carmel Cove Inn has 10 rooms and features a tennis court, billiards, Jacuzzis and bicycles. Gourmet breakfast is served; 301-387-0067.

* Lake Pointe Inn, a walk away from Wisp Resort, has nine rooms and a great room with a fireplace and a wrap-around porch; 800-523-5253.

Food

* Imagine a pint-sized Eddie's at the lake. Arrowhead Market - a 24-hour grocery and deli - supplies gourmet meals, freshly cut steaks, gas and one-hour film developing. Come by boat or car. The market is on U.S. 219 (Garrett Highway); 301-387-4020.

* Care to watch the sunset while you dine? Try McClive's. The lakefront restaurant serves steaks and seafood and offers a view of the Wisp Ski Resort. Takeout is available. The restaurant is north of the Point View Inn on Deep Creek Drive; 301-387-6172.

* Trader's Cafe surprised us. Casual, yes, but the place has great sandwiches and artfully prepared salads. My kids can't forget those mega-chocolate-chip cookies. The restaurant is on Garrett Highway, half a mile south of the Garrett Highway Bridge; 301-387-7216.

* We liked the ice cream at the Lakeside Creamery so much we went there three times during our week-long vacation. If a waffle cone stuffed with freshly made black-raspberry ice cream doesn't satisfy you, try a fudge sundae fashioned with two slabs of brownies on the side. On Garrett Highway, north of Arrowhead Market; 301-387-2580.

Tips

* Pack a sweat shirt. Even summer evenings get chilly.

* Get out of the resort area, and explore the countryside and small towns. My daughter Sam and I spent a delightful morning tracking down crafter Sue Arnson in her Loft Shop outside Bittinger. And I took a peaceful solo stroll through Oakland, stopping to study its 19th-century train station.

Must sees

* Muddy Creek Falls, Maryland's largest waterfall, in Swallow Falls State Park, 222 Herrington Lane, Oakland; 301-334-9180.

* Spruce Forest Artisan Village, 177 Casselman Road in Grantsville. 301-895-3332. A one-room schoolhouse, a basket weaver, a potter, an award-winning bird carver and other artists occupy the restored log cabins in the village. All are nestled between scenic Casselman Bridge (built in 1813 over the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal) and Penn Alps, a Mennonite restaurant.

Information: Garrett County Chamber of Commerce: 301-334-1948 or www.garrettchamber.com or www.deepcreeklake.org.

Pub Date: 8/02/98