1997 Franciscan "Oakville Estate" Napa Valley Chardonnay ($15).

This medium-bodied, toasty, lemony wine strikes an excellent balance between the often-bombastic style of California chardonnay and the occasionally over-subtle charms of the white Burgundies in this price bracket. Its flavors of pears and vanilla should match up well with such foods as salmon, swordfish or ham. The well-run Franciscan winery continues to be one of the most reliable producers of wines in the $10-$25 range.

Pub Date: 7/22/98