Saratoga Springs, N.Y., is a sophisticated little town with a multiple personality.

To history buffs, it is a key site of the American Revolution and home to some of the most elaborate Victorian architecture in the land. To those seeking a tonic for modern life, it is a resort town, famed for its healing waters. To music lovers, it is a symphony of first-rate classical, jazz, rock and folk. And to the horsey set, for six weeks every summer, it is Mecca.

How did one town, on the surface nearly indistinguishable from any other in upstate New York, come to be so many things to so many people?

It all started with H2O. The springs at Saratoga, bubbling up from a fault lying deep beneath the foothills of the Adirondack Mountains, were long revered by the Iroquois for their medicinal qualities. European settlers discovered them in the late 18th century, and it wasn't long before a little community developed around them.

A steady stream of well-heeled visitors flowed in to partake of the waters, said to cure everything from indigestion to gout. The tourist trickle became a geyser in the 1860s when John Morrissey brought horse racing and high-stakes gambling to the area, ushering in Saratoga's golden age.

And what a gilding the lily got. Manhattan's moneyed elite quickly made the town their summer satellite. Extravagant mansions rose up along the avenues, each trying to outdo the rest with massive colonnades, hand-carved lintels, wraparound stone porches, balconies, gables and cupolas. The Grand Union Hotel, now demolished, covered 7 acres downtown and included an opera house, a mile-long piazza and dining for 1,000; among its regular guests were the Vanderbilts, Astors and Whitneys.

In perhaps the most telling vignette of the era, financier Diamond Jim Brady once arrived in a silver-plated railroad car along with 27 Japanese houseboys, burlesque diva Lillian Russell and her dog, who sported a collar worth $1,800.

A century later, the ghosts remain - as does at least one direct descendant of those days: "the season."

From late July until early September, all life here revolves around that exceptional creature, the thoroughbred - and around the creature that makes the thoroughbred what it is, the socialite. The town's population nearly triples, and talk is equestrian-only among the breeders, trainers, jockeys, handicappers, auctioneers, stable hands, sportswriters and race officials who turn up. The only thing that threatens to upstage the horses is the endless fashion show of spectators, whose days blend together in a blur of all-night dinner-jacket-and-ball-gown shindigs, champagne breakfasts, dressage events, world-class polo and, oh yes, the races, which culminate in the $1 million Travers Stakes in late August.

Because this crowd must be perpetually entertained - and the horses must rest occasionally - Saratoga really ponies up when it comes to diversions that don't involve four legs and a tail. Though the atmosphere remains decidedly small-town, newsstands carry a wide variety of periodicals and big-city newspapers, dining compares favorably with New York's, and night life and entertainment make more than respectable showings all year round.

The elegant Saratoga Performing Arts Center is one of the country's best known for summer festivals, featuring jazz, chamber music, the New York City Ballet and the Philadelphia Orchestra. It also holds summer events, which this year include performances by the B-52's, the Pretenders, Blues Traveler and Beck, as well as Riverdance and Michael Bolton.

If your tastes lean more toward the legacy of Bill Monroe, Caffe Lena, which opened in 1960, is a legend on the folk circuit: It's where Don McLean first sang "American Pie," and rumor has it Bob Dylan crashed on the couch when he was too poor to get a room.

Saratoga is also overflowing with museums and historical sites. Its National Museum of Dance is the only one of its kind in the country. The fascinating Historical Society of Saratoga Springs, located in what was once the area's premier casino, preserves a gaming room of that era, displays the artifacts of an

extraordinary local family called the Walworths and houses the Ann Grey gallery, which sponsors changing exhibits related to the town's history. There is also an interactive Children's Museum, the National Museum of Racing and the Harness Racing Hall of Fame.

Those who would rather while away the summer days in the great outdoors will find plenty of places to stroll in Saratoga, including the tree-lined streets of East Side, with their spectacular estates; Frederick Law Olmsted's Congress Park; Greenridge Cemetery; and the gardens at Yaddo, an artist's retreat. The town and its environs also offer golf, tennis, swimming, boating and horseback riding. And when Saratoga National Historical Park isn't re-enacting battles of the Revolutionary War, it offers a 10-mile self-guided driving tour and a 4.2-mile nature hike, as well as picnicking, cycling and some lovely views of the valley.

Of course, no trip to Saratoga Springs would be complete without the full treatment at one of the legendary spas. Though the Roosevelt is closed for renovation, the Crystal Spa and the Lincoln Mineral Baths are excellent alternatives. In addition to the basic program - a long soak in naturally carbonated mineral water - both offer massages, reflexology, herbal wraps, aromatherapy and other corporeal delights, for prices ranging from $15 to $98. The Crystal is a bit more upscale, but the Lincoln, built in 1930 as part of FDR's New Deal and at the time the largest bath building in the world, is worth a trip if only as an adventure in time travel to the heyday of hydrotherapy.

To get a real taste of what the Victorians craved, take a stroll through Saratoga Spa State Park, where you'll find several of the area's remaining springs, including the Hathorn No. 3, known for its cathartic effect; the Coesa spouting spring, touted as an antacid; and the Geyser Well No. 2, said to increase appetite and aid digestion. Be forewarned: The medicine in most of them would go down better with a spoonful of sugar.

Luckily, there's plenty to please the palate in town as well. Among the 80 or so restaurants, there are several standouts.

Madeline's is an independently owned gourmet coffee shop whose sweets seem all the more decadent when consumed while snuggled into a back-parlor wing chair; Little India is authentically ethnic; and the Olde Bryan Inn is a favorite among locals. At down-home Hattie's, in operation since the late 1930s, old jazz and R&B; provide the perfect backdrop for Southern dishes such as Creole jambalaya and bourbon shrimp.

For those who wish to see and be seen, Siro's and the Lodge, both open only during the racing season, are the superior race-time picks. More accessible but every bit as trendy is 43 Phila, a chic New York-style bistro offering an eclectic a la carte menu and a wine list that has won national awards for five of the restaurant's six years.

And then there is Sperry's. A bookie joint and speakeasy during Prohibition, it has, in its present incarnation, been the casual but entrenched favorite of the equestrian crowd for two decades. The patio and garden are filled to capacity on summer weekends, and you never know whom you might meet - even Robert Redford has been known to pop in.

There are plenty of places for a postprandial tipple and some interesting conversation, though in-the-know locals seem to gravitate toward a few choices in particular.

Metro is an active dance space encompassing three separate worlds: disco on the main floor, live blues and rock downstairs, and cool jazz upstairs. Jazz and blues are the staples at One Caroline Street, a friendly bistro that in just two years of operation has attracted names like Wynton Marsalis to its jam sessions. Nine Maple is sleek and intimate, and features live jazz on Fridays and Saturdays, but the real stars here are the single-barrel bourbons, exotic martinis and 127 single-malt scotches.

And finally, the Parting Glass serves shepherd's pie and Guinness on tap, but its long history and casual hospitality make it more than just a typical Irish pub. A magnet for just about everyone who passes through Saratoga, from ballerinas to rock stars to regular Joes, this is the perfect place to raise a parting glass to the little town that has everything - and then some.

WHEN YOU GO...

Lodging

* The Adelphi Hotel, 365 Broadway, 518-587-4688, www.saratogaonline.com/adelphi. Rates range from $95 to $330 depending on season.

* Gideon Putnam Hotel, 24 Gideon Putnam Road, Saratoga Spa State Park, 800-732-1560. Rates range from $89 to $465 depending on time of year and type of room.

* The Inn at Saratoga, 231 Broadway, 800-274-3573. Rates range from $90 in the low season to $275 in the high season. www.theinnatsaratoga.com.

* Rip Van Dam Hotel, 353 Broadway, 518-584-6100. Rates range from $55 to $165.

Dining

* Caffe Lena: Friday and Saturday shows at 8 p.m., Wednesday shows at 7 p.m., with cover charges hovering around $10. 47 Phila St., 518-583-0022, www.caffelena.com.

* 43 Phila Bistro: Seven nights from 5 p.m. until the cows come home. 43 Phila St., 518-584-2720.

* Four Seasons Natural Foods Restaurant and Store: 9 a.m.-9 p.m. seven days; 33 Phila St., 518-584-4670.

* Hattie's: Normal hours are 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday; 4 p.m.-8:30 p.m. Sunday. But summer hours are 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. 45 Phila St., 518-584-4790.

* Little India Restaurant: Open for lunch Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. and until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 423 Broadway, 518-583-4151.

* The Lodge: Open July 24-Sept. 7 only; from 5 p.m. to midnight, depending on business. Nelson Ave., 518-584-7988 or 518-584-2110.

* Olde Bryan Inn: 11 a.m.-midnight seven days, 123 Maple Ave., 518-587-2990.

* Siro's: Open July 24-Sept. 7 only; bar hours are 10 a.m. until late (depending on business) and dining room hours are 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., 168 Lincoln Ave., 518-584-4030.

* Sperry's: Lunch served from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner is served from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Bar hours are 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. depending on business, 30] Caroline St., 518-584-9618.

Ponying up

* Harness Hall of Fame: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Thursday-Sunday in May and June; 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday in July and August; free. 518-587-4210.

* National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame: Union Ave., 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily during racing season; otherwise, 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon-4:30 p.m. Sundays; 518-584-0400. $5 adults, $3 students and seniors, members and children under 5 are free.

Culture

* National Museum of Dance: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily; admission $1- $3.50; 518-584-2225.

* Saratoga Performing Arts Center: Concert tickets range from $10-$55; Saratoga Spa State Park; 518-587-3330.

History

* Saratoga National Historical Park: Visitors Center open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; $10 for an annual pass. To tour the grounds, passes are $4 a car and $2 a person for walking or biking. Located at 648 Route 32, Stillwater; 518-664-9821.

* Historical Society of Saratoga Springs at the Casino in Congress Park: Hours are 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 1 p.m.-4 p.m. Sunday; 518-584-6920. Admission to the downstairs gallery is free, and the upstairs gallery costs $3 for adults, $2 seniors and students; children under 12 are admitted free.

Entertainment

* Saratoga Spa State Park: Golf, picnicking, pool, tennis; $3 Memorial Day through Labor Day; 518-584-2535 or 518-587-3330.

* Yaddo: Union Avenue next to racetrack. Informal garden tours 11 a.m. Saturdays and Sundays mid-June through Labor day and Tuesdays at 11 a.m. during racing season. Tours cost $2 a person, but grounds are open for visitors to roam at no charge. 518-584-0746.

* The Canfield Casino in Congress Park: Hours are Monday through Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., admission $3 adults, $2 seniors and students, and under 12 are free. Tours are available Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 1:30 p.m. 518-584-6920.

Spas

* Crystal Spa: 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Monday, Tuesday and Saturday; 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday; 8:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Sunday; 92 S. Broadway; 518-584-2556.

* Lincoln Mineral Baths: 39 Roosevelt Drive, 9 a.m.-noon and 1 p.m.-4 p.m. daily in July and August; South Broadway Entrance to Saratoga Spa Park, 518-583-2880.

Kid stuff: The Children's Museum; 36 Phila St.; summer hours are Monday through Saturday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. until Labor Day. Admission is $3 a person. 518-584-5540.

Information: The Saratoga Springs Chamber of Commerce 518-584-3255.