Like onions and leeks (the other edible members of the lily family), asparagus is botanically related to the grasses, which may be why it was called "sparrowgrass" in 18th-century England. Later, it was the English who invented tongs for serving asparagus (even though it was eaten with the fingers).

Asparagus has even inspired its own piece of cookware: the asparagus steamer, a tall, lidded pot with a perforated liner or wire basket to hold the spears upright. The ends of the stalks simmer in a small amount of water while the tips steam.

If you don't have an asparagus steamer, you can improvise one, using a double boiler or even two saucepans of the same diameter. The bundle of asparagus is placed upright in a small amount of simmering water in the bottom pan, and the second pan is inverted over the first to trap the steam.

With either the asparagus steamer or double boiler, a bundle of young, pencil-slim stalks can cook in less than 5 minutes; thicker stalks take 8 to 10 minutes. Because the size of the stalks and the bundle varies, it's best to test for doneness by piercing several stalks with a fork.

Another way to cook asparagus is in a frying pan, with an inch or so of boiling water in the bottom. Add the spears, laying them parallel, two layers deep, and cook them, partially covered, over medium-high heat until they test tender (about 5 to 7 minutes), shaking the pan occasionally.

Or you can microwave asparagus, covered, on high (100 percent power) with 2 tablespoons of water in a microwave-proof dish. Microwave for 4 to 7 minutes, depending on the size of the spears; let stand one minute before serving.

Success tips

* Asparagus season generally runs from mid-February through June.

* Select smooth, round, straight spears with bright green color running two-thirds of the way down the stalk. The stalks should be firm and free of soft spots. Look for spears with closed, compact tips; partially opened tips are a sign that the spears were too mature when harvested and may be tough.

* To prepare asparagus, snap the stalks, letting them break naturally where the stalk becomes tender. Trim with a knife, if desired. Discard the tough ends or save for soup or stock.

Lemon butter is a classic complement to fresh asparagus. If you're lucky enough to have any leftover asparagus, toss it with cooked pasta, olive oil, garlic and grated Parmesan for a tempting lunch the next day.

Steamed Asparagus With Lemon Butter

Makes 4 servings

1 1/2 pounds fresh asparagus

LEMON BUTTER:

Makes about 1/4 cup; enough for 1 1/2 pounds asparagus

2 tablespoons butter

juice of half a lemon

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

Snap asparagus spears, discarding ends or reserving them for soup. Bundle spears with kitchen string.

Bring 2 inches of water to a boil in asparagus steamer or bottom of double boiler.

Stand asparagus upright in boiling water. Cover, reduce heat slightly, and cook until barely tender (about 5 to 8 minutes). Drain, drizzle with lemon butter and serve at once.

For the lemon butter, melt butter in small pan over medium heat; whisk in lemon juice and nutmeg. Pour over cooked asparagus.

1998 Cole Publishing Group Inc.

Pub Date: 5/10/98