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Shaped jacket conceals flaws in the figure

I'm a woman of a "certain age" who has had a lot of medical problems. The last one was open-heart surgery, and it left me with a scar down the center of my chest.

I am skinny, bony and look frail. I do have an interest in fashion, and I try to look my best, no matter how bad I feel. Next month my friends are planning to take me to lunch in the town's best restaurant to celebrate my recovery.

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I want a good-looking suit or dress to wear. What do you suggest?

A well-shaped jacket is the best way to hide figure faults. Even if it is costly, it's worth the price.

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New York designer Oscar de la Renta suggests wearing a one-button fly top combined with a longer skirt.

"While no woman should ever feel self-conscious, a clever way to avert the eye and detract attention is to create an illusion," he tells me.

"A one-button fly top would do the job perfectly. It will help focus the eye where you want it, and worn in a warm neutral color it is sure to offer lots of flexibility."

My face is round as the moon. To disguise it I've always worn my hair long. Then last week I fell in love with a short haircut on a model in a magazine.

The result is I now have a cropped head of curls that makes me look like a chubby little girl. Please tell how I should apply makeup to make my face seem longer.

It will be months before my hair grows back.

For advice I turned to Borja of Borja Color Studio in Manhattan, which specializes in both hair and makeup.

Her advice is to build up the height of your hair. "Use a blow dryer and a round brush at the top of the head. This will make your hair look fuller and higher," she said.

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"Then have your stylist thin your hair on the sides -- without cutting off any more length. This will take away the fullness at the sides and make your face seem longer.

"Another tip is to pull a few wisps onto the forehead and the sides to cut down on the roundness of the cheeks."

As for makeup, Borja's makeup artist Robin Narvaez suggests contouring:

"Brush a soft color from the top of the cheek along the side of the face. Then apply the same color along the cheekbone, stopping at the center.

"Then with a large powder brush apply a light-shading brown directly under the cheekbone into the jaw area. Both applications should be done with a light touch."

The contouring in two colors should give the illusion of high cheekbones and make your face seem thinner.

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Send questions to Elsa Klensch, Los Angeles Times Syndicate, 218 S. Spring St., Los Angeles, Calif. 90012.

Pub Date: 11/27/97


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