Booked to Cook Festival: Weekend fair gives the author of 'Death by Chocolate' a chance to share what he knows about just desserts.

THE BALTIMORE SUN

When Marcel Desaulniers appears at the Baltimore Book Festival this weekend, it will be a first for him. "I've done a lot of cookbook things, but never a book fair per se," said the executive chef at the noted Trellis Restaurant at Colonial Williamsburg.

However, expect Desaulniers to have a ready audience for his demonstration of rocky road fudge, for the man who might be called the Chief of Chocolate has attracted an avid following for his recent dessert cookbooks, "Death by Chocolate," "Desserts to Die For," and the new "An Alphabet of Sweets." In fact, so ingrained is the connection between Desaulniers and dessert that it has changed the way he operates at the 16-year-old restaurant.

So many people are coming in wanting just dessert that he has opened a dessert-to-go kiosk at the front of the restaurant, and he's negotiating with his landlord for more space to open a

dessert-to-go shop.

Desaulniers, whose first book was "The Trellis Cookbook," will be just one of the cookbook authors appearing at the "Food for Thought" portion of the book festival this Saturday and Sunday. Others include Nancy Baggett of Columbia ("100 Percent Pleasure," with Ruth Glick); Marlene Sorosky, of California ("Entertaining on the Run") and Baltimore native John Shields ("The Chesapeake Bay Cookbook"). They'll be signing books and demonstrating some of their recipes. (See accompanying box for list and schedule.)

There was no question about including a cookbook segment in the event, said Rob Hennessy, public relations and marketing assistant in the Baltimore Office of Promotions. "If you walk into a bookstore, one of the largest sections is cookbooks. We wanted to appeal to everybody -- a broad range of segments -- and cooking was one of the most popular ones."

When the committee planning the cookbook segment of the festival got together, they drew up a short list of the region's best and most noted chefs, Hennessy said. "They chose Marcel and he accepted. He has an international reputation, he's a great addition to our festival."

Nancy Baggett, author of "Dream Desserts" and "The International Cookie Cookbook," among others, and occasional rival, said Desaulniers is notable for the popularity of his cookbooks. "He's fun," she said. "A nice guy. And much more down-to-earth than his name would imply."

Desserts that Trellis diners have been lining up for include death by chocolate, a stunning concoction of cocoa meringue, chocolate mousse, chocolate brownie, chocolate ganache mocha mousse and mocha rum sauce ("Death by Chocolate," Rizzoli, 1992, $29.95); fallen angel cake with golden halos and sinful cream ("Desserts to Die For," Simon & Schuster, 1995, $30); and caramel peanut chocolate chunk ice cream ("An Alphabet of Sweets" (Rizzoli, $15.95).

Desaulniers credits his mother's brittles and fudges for creating in him a lifelong passion for chocolate in all its forms, a passion that lasted from his early days in Rhode Island, through his days at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. (he graduated in 1965) and to his stints as a hotel chef in New York. Although the chocolate passion was temporarily replaced by the desire to stay alive during his tour as a Marine in Vietnam, it was rekindled when he went to the Trellis, where, he writes in the introduction to "Death by Chocolate," he "enlisted the pastry chefs to create some devastating concoctions from chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate."

Diners, he says, began to time their reservations to the appearance on the dessert menu of death by chocolate. His career as the Guardian of Ganache was launched.

Along the way, Desaulniers has won a James Beard Award (1993, for best chef, mid-Atlantic region), a Julia Child Award (1995, for "Desserts to Die For" in the best cookbook, baking, category) and a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Culinary Institute of America (1996; he delivered the commencement address to, among other graduates, his daughter Danielle).

Why dessert?

The deep desire for dessert is one of two trends Desaulniers currently sees occurring in the restaurant industry: There's "the indulgence thing" and the "good for you thing."

"People are eating desserts a lot more," he said. "Somebody asked me, is it because of the millennium?" And he laughs. "That would be a great thing for restaurateurs -- 'Let's party now.' "

But he sees it more as a function of expectation. "People who come to a restaurant like the Trellis have certain expectations," he said. "They perceive it as an occasion, and they want dessert."

At the same time, he said, "People want to choose what's good for them, but they're going out to eat." One reflection of that trend is the number of vegetarian choices on his menus: 8 to 10 percent at dinner, and as much as 20 to 30 percent at lunch.

One thing Desaulniers is trying to stick to, however, is the restaurant's tradition of regional cuisine.

"We're victims of our business," he said. When a trend takes off, it's natural to want to follow it. "We can get off-track, and suddenly find the menu is looking too Mediterranean. I love pasta myself, but we try to use what people think of when they think of our food. It's pretty fundamental."

The new Trellis menu, which starts today, includes dinner appetizers such as sugar-cured duck with sauteed root vegetables and nutmeg-scented grains and grilled Gulf shrimp with a salad of arugula, Parmigiana-Reggiano and balsamic-marinated fire-roasted peppers. Entrees include pan-seared salmon with country ham and spinach risotto, and sauteed thinly sliced calves' liver with oven-roasted carrots, currants and cracked black pepper butter.

And, of course, there will be plenty of killer desserts.

For the future, Desaulniers is excited about his new studio kitchen near Williamsburg, where he can retreat to develop new recipes. He's just finished a cookie cookbook, and he's negotiating for a cooking series on public television.

Ganache Hill, as the property is appropriately known, is surrounded by trees, he said, and having a place for projects "is just like heaven."

For some people, of course, heaven is just a little brown sugar, heavy cream, unsweetened chocolate, butter and toasted pecans away. Those are the ingredients in Desaulniers' rocky road fudge (from "An Alphabet of Sweets").

He chose to demonstrate the fudge because "they asked me to do something simple." And, he said, "I could talk about chocolate until I turn to chocolate."

Here's another recipe from "An Alphabet of Sweets."

Midnight pudding

Serves 4

4 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped into 1/4 -inch pieces

2 cups half-and-half

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa

4 large egg yolks

1 tablespoon cornstarch

4 ounces white chocolate, chopped into 1/8 -inch pieces

Melt semisweet chocolate in top half of a double boiler over medium heat. Stir chocolate constantly with rubber spatula until completely melted and smooth, then remove from heat and set aside.

Heat half-and-half, 1/4 cup sugar, and the cocoa in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, whisk to dissolve sugar. Bring to a boil. While cream is heating, whisk egg yolks, remaining sugar and cornstarch in a bowl until slightly thickened and lemon colored. Pour boiling half-and-half mixture slowly into egg yolks and stir to combine.

Return mixture to saucepan and heat over medium-high heat, stirring constantly until it begins to boil and becomes quite thick, about 30 seconds. Remove pan from heat and transfer mixture to a large bowl. Add melted chocolate. Then, place bowl in ice water and stir pudding until it is cold. Fold all but 2 tablespoons of the white chocolate into pudding.

To serve, place 3/4 cup of pudding into each of four dessert bowls and sprinkle half a tablespoon of white chocolate over top of each.

Who's cooking up what at book festival

The first Baltimore Book Festival will feature dozens of authors of books on poetry, fiction, nonfiction and food. The event, which takes place all around Mount Vernon Place, runs from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday, and from noon to 6 p.m. Sunday. Admission is free.

There will be story-telling, poetry readings, author signings, literary walking tours, book selling, activities for children and live music and a cafe.

Cookbook authors, who will be in the "Food for Thought" area on the west side of Mount Vernon Place north of the monument, will be signing books and demonstrating signature recipes. Here is the schedule:

Saturday

10 a.m.-11 a.m.: Susan Belsinger, food writer and photographer. She has written 10 cookbooks and articles for such magazines as Gourmet and Food & Wine.

11: 30 a.m.-12: 30 p.m.: Marlene Sorosky, cooking teacher and author of six cookbooks, including "Entertaining on the Run: Easy Menus for Faster Lives."

1 p.m.-2 p.m.: Loco Hombre restaurant, demonstrations of cooking Mexican cuisine.

2: 30 p.m.-3: 30 p.m.: Marcel Desaulniers, award-winning chef at the Trellis Restaurant in Colonial Williamsburg, author of "Death by Chocolate" and the recent "An Alphabet of Sweets." He will be demonstrating rocky road fudge.

4 p.m.-5 p.m.: Gloria Kaufer Greene, former food critic for the Baltimore Jewish Times, author of "The Jewish Holiday Guide: An International Collection of Recipes and Customs."

5: 30 p.m.-6: 30 p.m.: Bobbi Hinnman, author of "The Lean & Luscious Cookbook."

7 p.m.-8 p.m.: John Shields, author of "The Chesapeake Bay Cookbook" and "The Chesapeake Bay Crab Cookbook."

Sunday

Noon-1 p.m.: Marlene Sorosky

1: 30 p.m.-2 p.m.: Loco Hombre Restaurant

2: 30 p.m.-3: 30 p.m.: Nancy Baggett, author of "Dream Desserts" and "The International Cookie Cookbook."

3: 45 p.m.-4: 45 p.m.: Laura Rosen, author of "Resort & Hotel Chefs Top Secrets: A Cookbook & Travel Guide."

Pub Date: 9/25/96

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