The maxis are back Karan lightens up; Fashion: Fall trends in the New York shows include retro, peacoats and turtlenecks.


NEW YORK -- Yikes, it's gauchos! Just when we were feeling reassured that those walking fashion disasters from the '70s were forever dead, they came strutting down the Anne Klein runway to the disco thump of "Staying Alive."

House designer Patrick Robinson missed the beat on this one, but he's to be forgiven. At 29, he's too young to remember the full effect those goofy pants have on a woman's backside. He did fine with the rest of this retro collection with some snappy maxi-coats, maxi-skirts and relaxed sportswear, which keeps this career-friendly house going. His colors were dark and neutral, with some pops of caramel and camel to lighten things up.

Donna Karan, the queen of head-to-toe black dressing, has had a change of color for her hip and young DKNY collection. No black. Deep kodiak brown, charcoal, navy, olive and palomino pony, but no black. She may have to edit the NY out of her label if the streets of New York are any indication of the fashion pulse here.

It was debut time for Evgenia Gvozdetsky, Elena Nazaroff and Ivanka Trump. The Russian newcomers who call themselves Ev & El gave the little Trump, daughter of Donald and Ivana Trump, her first walk down the runway. Ivanka was cute, pouty and flirty, as was the collection of young little dresses and sassy separates.

Fall trends that are showing strength are:

Maxi-coats with Superfly wide collars and belting.

Peacoats, in traditional navy, but also in black, camel and leather.

Turtleneck ribbed skinny sweaters with everything.

The camel polo coat.

Be careful what you toss during spring cleaning.

Pub Date: 3/29/96

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