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1994 Healdsburg Vineyards Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Carneros, Special Bottling No. 149 ($10).


This elegant, medium-bodied chardonnay with a light kiss of oak bears a strong resemblance to a top-notch Macon-Villages or Pouilly-Fuisse. There's fine appley, nutty flavor and a pleasant toastiness. It's not a thick, booming California chardonnay, but rather a wine with elegance and finesse at a most attractive price. These Healdsburg wines breeze in and out of the market quickly because quantities are small and the values are excellent.

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