1992 Centine Rosso di Montalcino ($9)

THE BALTIMORE SUN

There must be lots of declassified Brunello in this superb red wine, which triumphs over a miserable vintage in Tuscany. Made by Villa Banfi, the Centine is a medium-weight red with intense flavors of cherry, bacon and herbs. Though it isn't particularly concentrated, it keeps its grip on the palate through a long, complete finish. Served with grilled tuna steak, it was a stunning matchup.

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