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1994 Georges Duboeuf Viognier, Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche ($10)

THE BALTIMORE SUN

Leave it to Georges Duboeuf, the "King of Beaujolais," to produce the seemingly impossible: a good, inexpensive viognier. The price of this intensely flavorful dry white wine is about one-fourth of those from the grapes' ancestral home in Condrieu in the northern Rhone and one-half to one-third that of the recent spate of Condrieu imitators in California. And while it doesn't rank with the best Condrieus, it does a better job of capturing the lychee nut, peach, tropical fruit and spice flavors of fine viognier than do most of its American rivals. Drink this wine while it's young, fresh and fragrant.

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