1993 Chateau La Louviere blanc, Pessac-Leognan ($21), 1993 L de La Louviere, (about $12)


No, this wine is not cheap, except when you consider that it's every bit as good as the elite white wines of Graves that sell for $40 and more. Quite simply, this is great white Bordeaux -- smoky and rich, with flavors of lemon, minerals, figs, melons and juniper berries. The finish is long and satisfying. Serve this with serious seafood -- say swordfish or salmon.

And if the La Louviere is a little too pricey for you, consider the 1993 L de La Louviere, the chateau's delightful "second" wine. It lacks the heft and complexity of its big brother, but the crisp, herbal, racy flavors show a distinct family resemblance. Bravo to winery owner Andre Lurton for offering two fine white wines in both 1992 and 1993.

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