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1992 Concannon Petite Sirah ($9.79)

THE BALTIMORE SUN

This gutsy, full-bodied California red delivers a load of complexity for a varietal that is often scorned as hopelessly rustic. It offers intense flavors of herbes de Provence, raspberry, blackberry and black pepper. If this sounds like the description of a fine red zinfandel, that's because this wine does a convincing imitation at a much kinder price. The out-of-fashion Concannon winery has produced a wine from an out-of-fashion grape that is out of this world.

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