1992 Reserve St. Martin Mourvedre ($7)

THE BALTIMORE SUN

This is the best in a collection of well-made Reserve St. Martin wines from France's Val d'Orbieu. The grape is mourvedre, a classic red varietal from the southern Rhone and Provence. This cooperative does it justice with a middle-weight rendition that offers exuberant, spicy fruit and a hint of herbs. If you're looking for a modestly priced white, try Reserve St. Martin's 1993 Marsanne, which is equally good.

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