1990 Mouton Cadet Bordeaux Rouge ($9)

In past vintages this red regional Bordeaux brand has been a disgrace to the honor of France -- thin and bland, with a cardboard taste from excessive filtration. This 1990 shows a remarkable improvement. It's a fine middleweight Bordeaux with generous, chewy black cherry flavors. There are better wines for the price, but Mouton Cadet has the virtue of easy availability and it's good to know that you no longer have to go out of your way to avoid it.