1993 Toro Collegiata Blanco, Bodegas Farina ($6)

This crisp, fresh, dry Spanish white wine produced from the underrated malvasia grape offers ample lemon and apple flavors set off by clean, stony nuances. It's not overwhelmingly complex, but it packs a lot of flavor for a wine of its price. It would make a good house wine to buy by the case.