What's cooking at your house tonight? Baked chicken. Meatloaf, maybe. Burgers and baked potatoes. Spaghetti.
In other words, same old same old.
Same here.
It's so easy to fall into a suppertime rut, serving up the old reliables you can make with your eyes closed. No surprises with the ingredients, no new skills to master, no "eew, what's that?" from the folks you're feeding.
Aren't you tired of it?
Same here.
Which is why the following featured cookbooks have earned a place in my kitchen. They're full of reality-based recipes -- soups, salads, main dishes that are built from fresh raw ingredients, not additive-filled packaged foods, yet don't require a zillion ingredients and don't take forever to put together. They offer rewarding new tastes for bored home cooks and eaters.
These books prove that good food doesn't depend on hours of fussing or expensive, exotic ingredients. They are testimony to the enduring appeal of simple, good food.
Sometimes, a great new cookbook is just the thing to jump-start a stalled imagination and whet the appetite of the most jaded home cook.
We know that, aside from true-blue foodies and collectors, most people don't go around buying cookbooks just for fun. But for folks who'll buy one now and then, or are looking for a gift idea, one of these just might provide inspiration and variety when you're fed up with the usual fare.
The offerings are "Cucina Rapida," easy, authentic Italian recipes; "Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home," mostly vegetarian, mostly ethnic dishes; "Helen Chen's Chinese Home Cooking," a clear and unintimidating guide; "Mark Peel & Nancy Silverton at Home," recipes from a married couple who own and cook at Campanile, one of Los Angeles' best restaurants; and "Nathalie Dupree Cooks Great Meals for Busy Days," the latest offering from the popular, Atlanta-based TV cook.
My favorite, "Cucina Rapida," by Clifford A. Wright (Morrow, $19), is a delicious discovery for lovers of Italian food (of which I am one). Most of the recipes can be done in 30 minutes or less, and the flavors are forthright.
I've cooked a lot from this book since it came out in early summer and have yet to be disappointed. The recipe for Linguine with Shrimp, Spinach and Lemon is bright-tasting, a memorable supper that I will make again for my family or for casual entertaining.
My only reservation about "Cucina Rapida" is that Mr. Wright has a lavish hand with olive oil and some of his meat portions are overly generous, to my way of thinking. I've reduced by half the amounts of oil with fine results and would recommend you do that, too.
The Moosewood cookbooks written by the collective that runs the well-known vegetarian restaurant in Ithaca, N.Y., have gained legions of fans through the years. Now, following several restaurant-style collections, comes a book of recipes expressly for home cooking, "Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home" (Fireside, $15 trade paperback).
Subtitled "fast and easy recipes for any day," it's a tremendously appealing, eclectic bunch of mostly vegetarian, ethnically influenced dishes. (There is a fish chapter, and quite a few recipes use dairy products, such as cheese).
This is a great cookbook for nutrition-conscious cooks and lovers of new flavors. The recipes are mostly simple and straightforward but urge you to try new seasonings and expand your tastes.
The daughter of famed restaurateur Joyce Chen (who died last summer after a long illness) has written a welcome guide to the home cooking of her country, with notes on ingredients and the )) how and why of Chinese techniques that will empower even timid cooks.
The recipes in "Helen Chen's Chinese Home Cooking" (Hearst, $25) use a lot of familiar ingredients -- Coral and Jade is a stir-fry of shrimp and snow peas seasoned with ginger, sherry, cornstarch and ketchup -- and most are accomplished in short order.
If you've wanted to trade your habit of Chinese take-out for some of the home-cooked real thing, this is just the book to get you started. The recipe for Hot and Sour Soup will give you a taste of Ms. Chen's work.
Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton, well-known to California foodies for their Los Angeles restaurant, Campanile, and the adjacent La Brea Bakery, have collected some of their favorite family recipes (they're married and have three children) in this volume. He does the savory stuff, she bakes breads and sweets.
Mr. Peel and Ms. Silverton, who live over the restaurant, seem to be able to take home whatever ingredients they fancy. This is nice for them, but it means the rest of us will have to do some schlepping. And because they are professional cooks, their ideas about what's quick and easy may not strike you as exactly that. They also have a chef's love for oil, butter and cream.
Still, "Mark Peel & Nancy Silverton at Home: Two Chefs Cook for Family and Friends" (Warner Books, $24.95) is an interesting collection of recipes. Enlivened by a few retro choices such as Wedge of Iceberg with Blue Cheese Dressing, Peppered Steak and French Fries, it's peppered with delicious-sounding offerings such as Sauteed Spicy Catfish, Japanese Flank Steak and Lasagne with Eggplant, Peppers and Veal.
Subtitled "Delicious Food and Easy Entertaining for a Less than Perfect World," the latest collection from television cook Nathalie Dupree is chock full of do-ahead tips, notes on what can be frozen and serving suggestions. It's a strategic weapon for a busy food-lover.
"Nathalie Dupree Cooks Great Meals for Busy Days" (Clarkson Potter, $19) is not spur-of-the-moment cooking, Ms. Dupree writes in the introduction. "With a little bit of forethought and by making the best possible use of my time, whenever I have time, I can feast family and friends with relative ease."
The book features a lot of unattended oven cooking, many dishes that can be made ahead and reheated and includes symbols for each recipe that indicate whether it can be frozen, microwaved, made ahead and so forth.
I have had very mixed results with recipes from this book, which has the feeling of a work done very quickly. Tuscan Lemon Beef was a major disappointment, and Chicken in a Pot tasted good but was seriously overcooked when I followed directions. Home-style Ham and Potato Casserole, offered here, was savory and rich, but it, too, cooked more quickly than the recipe indicated and the milk in it bubbled over the casserole and made a mess of my oven.
Still, for Dupree fans (this book is companion to her TV series) and for fairly accomplished cooks who are willing to tinker with imperfect recipes, there are many good ideas to borrow and delicious-sounding dishes (Chunky Applesauce with Caramelized Onions) to try.
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Of these three recipes from "Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home" (Fireside trade paperback, $15), I tested this recipe with regular couscous and have included notes on it; you'll find whole wheat in natural foods stores.
Couscous with
Sun-dried Tomatoes
Makes 4 servings
1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
rounded 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1 1/4 cups water
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole wheat couscous
In a medium saucepan with a tightly fitting lid, saute onions in the oil on medium heat. When onions are beginning to soften, add sun-dried tomatoes and thyme and continue to saute about 5 minutes more. In another pot, bring the water to a boil. When onions are translucent, add boiling water and salt and return to a boil. Stir in couscous, cover and simmer on low heat for 5 minutes.
(Editor's note: If using regular couscous, remove from heat and let sit 5 minutes). Stir with a fork to fluff the couscous and serve. Per serving: 257 calories; 7 g protein; 41 g carbohydrate; 7 g fat; 25 percent of calories as fat; 0 cholesterol; 143 mg sodium.
Fish with Tomato-Orange Salsa
Serves 4
4 swordfish or tuna steaks (about 6 ounces each) or 1 1/2 pounds firm fish fillets
MARINADE:
3 tablespoons orange juice
juice of 1 lemon
1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
1 tablespoon olive oil
dash of Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce or 1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Tomato-Orange Salsa (recipe follows)
Rinse the fish and set aside.
Combine all the marinade ingredients in a shallow, nonreactive bowl. Add the fish to the bowl, spoon the marinade over it and set aside.
Prepare the Tomato-Orange Salsa and set aside.
Broil or grill the fish for about 10 minutes, basting with the marinade several times while cooking. When the fish flakes easily with a fork but is still moist, serve immediately, topped with a generous amount of the salsa.
Per serving: 285 calories; 35 g protein; 12 g carbohydrate; 11 g fat; 34 percent of calories as fat; 66 mg cholesterol; 163 mg sodium.Tomato-Orange Salsa
Makes 2 1/2 cups
3 ripe tomatoes, diced
4 scallions, chopped
1/2 to 1 fresh hot green chili, seeded and minced, or 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons freshly grated orange peel
1 orange, sectioned and seeded, each section cut in half
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
salt to taste
Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the flavors to blend. Covered and refrigerated, this salsa will keep for 2 to 3 days.
Per 1/4 cup sauce: 16 calories; 0.5 g protein; 4 g carbohydrate; 0.2 g fat; 9 percent of calories as fat; 0 cholesterol; 4 mg sodium.
This recipe from "Cucina Rapida" is absolutely wonderful, though it certainly doesn't need 6 tablespoons of olive oil; 3 would do.
Linguine with Shrimp Spinach and Lemon
1 cup water
1 1/4 pounds medium shrimp (see note)
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 dried red chili pepper, crumbled
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 ripe tomato, chopped
10 ounces spinach, washed, trimmed and torn into pieces
1 pound linguine
Bring a large pot of abundantly salted water to a boil for the pasta.
In a small pot, bring the 1 cup water to a simmer. Peel the shrimp, adding the shells to the water, and let simmer for 5 to 10 minutes. Then strain the broth and reserve 1/2 cup.
Place the shrimp in a bowl and add 1/4 cup of the olive oil, the garlic, red chili pepper, lemon juice, lemon peel, mint and salt and pepper. Stir to coat the shrimp.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet. Add the tomato and cook over high heat, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the reserved shrimp broth and cook for another 3 minutes. Add the shrimp mixture and salt to taste. Then add the spinach and cook, stirring often, until the shrimp are cooked through and the spinach is wilted, about 5 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente; drain.
Place the pasta in a serving bowl and pour the sauce on top. Serve immediately.
Note: If you use peeled cooked shrimp instead of raw shrimp, chop 2 shrimp and combine with 1/2 cup of boiling water to use in place of the broth. Heat the cooked shrimp for no more than 2 minutes.
Per serving: 739 calories; 39 g protein; 91 g carbohydrate; 24 g fat; 30 percent of calories as fat; 164 mg cholesterol; 228 mg sodium.
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This recipe is from "Mark Peel & Nancy Silverton At Home."
Potato, Fennel and Garlic Frittata
Serves 4
1 medium fennel bulb
6 eggs
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon or 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium red potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
6 large garlic cloves, sliced into thirds
3/4 teaspoon coarse salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 to 4 ounces Jarlsberg or Swiss cheese, cut into 1/2 by 3-inch strips
Remove the top feathery greens from the fennel bulb, chopping enough to equal 1 tablespoon and reserving the remainder whole.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, chopped fennel greens, tarragon, minced garlic and pepper. Set aside, covered, for 1 hour or refrigerate overnight.
Remove any tough outer stalks from fennel and cut the bulb horizontally into 1/4 -inch slices. In a 9- or 10-inch oven proof skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil and saute the potatoes and fennel over moderate heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove to a plate. Add sliced garlic and saute briefly. Return vegetables to skillet with the garlic, sprinkle with salt and toss together for 1 minute. Transfer all vegetables to a plate and wipe the skillet clean with a paper towel.
Melt butter with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and pour in egg mixture. Do not stir eggs. Cook over low heat 1 to 2 minutes, or until the edges begin to set, then spread vegetables over the top. Arrange cheese like spokes of a wheel over the vegetables, place under the broiler and broil just until the cheese melts.
Carefully slide the frittata onto a serving plate, cheese side up. Garnish with reserved fennel greens.
Per serving: 361 calories; 17 g protein; 14 g carbohydrate; 27 g fat; 66 percent of calories as fat; 347 mg cholesterol; 555 mg sodium.
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"Do not add salt; the cured ham provides all that is needed. This does not freeze but it can be reheated and keeps 2 or 3 days in the refrigerator," according to "Nathalie Dupree Cooks Great Meals for Busy Days."
Home-style Ham and Potato Casserole
Serves 6 to 9
8 potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
2 onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pound country ham, thinly sliced
2 cups ricotta cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon black pepper
3 cups milk
1 cup grated Swiss cheese
Heat the oven to 375 degrees.
In a large bowl, toss together the potatoes and onions and set aside. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil and add the ham. Saute the ham until just heated through, about 2 minutes. Remove from the pan and cut into thin strips.
In a small bowl, mix together the ricotta cheese, rosemary and black pepper. Place half the potato-onion mixture in a 13-by-9-by-2-inch baking dish and top with the ricotta cheese and ham strips. Cover with the remaining potatoes. Pour the milk over the entire casserole. (I would put foil underneath this to catch any milk that bubbles over.) Bake for 1 1/2 hours, or until the potatoes are soft and the sauce is thick and bubbly. Top with the grated cheese and bake for 15 to 20 minutes more, or until the cheese melts.
Per serving: 587 calories; 35 g protein; 50 g carbohydrate; 28 g fat; 42 percent of calories as fat; 109 mg cholesterol; 1,040 mg sodium.
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"This is one of my mother's best-loved recipes, which she made famous in the 1950s at our first restaurant on Concord Avenue in Cambridge," writes Ms. Chen in "Helen Chen's Chinese Home Cooking."
Peking Hot and Sour Soup
Makes 4 servings or 6 as part of a multicourse meal
1/4 cup shredded lean pork (2 ounces)
1 teaspoon dry sherry
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 cup dried golden needles, soaked in 2 cups hot water for 15 minutes and drained (see cook's note)
1/4 cup dried wood ear mushrooms, soaked in 2 cups hot water for 15 minutes and drained (see note)
1 (13-ounce) can chicken broth and enough water to make 3 1/2 cups
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1/2 cup shredded firm tofu (bean curd)
1 medium egg, beaten
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
salt to taste
1 teaspoon sesame seed oil
1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallions
Stir the pork, sherry and 1 teaspoon of the cornstarch together in a bowl. Set aside. Dissolve the remaining cornstarch in 1/2 cup cold water. Set aside.
Cut off the tough stems from the golden needles and woody pieces from the wood ears, if any. Cut the golden needles in half and the wood ears into 1/2 -inch pieces. Rinse, drain and squeeze out excess liquid from both.
Put the vinegar and pepper in a large serving bowl.
Combine the chicken broth and soy sauce in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. When the broth is boiling, stir in the pork. After 1 minute, stir in all the wood ears and golden needles. Bring back to a boil and boil for 1 minute. Add the bean curd. As soon as soup comes back to a boil again, mix the cornstarch mixture and stir it in. Stir until the soup thickens.
Pour a stream of beaten egg into the hot soup while constantly stirring. Remove from the heat immediately and pour the soup into the serving bowl with the vinegar and pepper. Add salt to taste and garnish with sesame seed oil and scallions. Serve hot.
Cook's notes: Dried golden needles are unopened blossoms from a day lily; they are sold packaged in cellophane or plastic bags at Oriental foods markets and last almost indefinitely. Dried wood ears are also known as Black Fungus, Cloud Ears or Tree Ears and are a gelatinous fungus that grows on trees. They are appreciated for their crisp texture; look for small black flakes, about half an inch or smaller in size.
Per serving: 169 calories; 15 g protein; 9 g carbohydrate; 8 g fat; 43 percent of calories as fat; 68 mg cholesterol; 741 mg sodium.