It is time to put the day's obsessions on hold, time to make some space for oneself, time to sit a spell for well-being, time to tune in to a ritual that has been soothing millions of people for thousands of years.
It is time for tea.
A simple cup of tea can provide an oasis of calm in a harried life.
"Tea is more than an herb," said Alexandra Stoddard, author of the new book "Tea Celebrations: The Way to Serenity" (William Morrow and Co. Inc., $18). "Tea is a conduit to the soul. Just say the word and it calms you down."
Though tea has been on the tips of people's tongues for thousands of years, it has recently become a hot topic in the specialty-food trade.
"There are a tremendous number of companies coming out with tea," said Ron Tanner, communications director of the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade. "Of all the [specialty-food] categories, tea may be the strongest one." There were more than 100 companies presenting tea products at the summer Fancy Food Show last July in New York City. "There's more growth in tea than in any other category, especially in the last six months or so," Mr. Tanner said.
Last November, Food Arts magazine, in an article called "Coffee, Tea and Money," by Beverly Stephen, noted that "Trend watchers predict [tea is] hot on the heels of coffee. They actually expect to see a crossover from the interest in specialty coffees to an interest in specialty teas. There will be more tea shops and tea bars."
And there will likely be more small regional tea companies, such as the Eastern Shore Tea Co. of Church Hill, an 11-year-old family firm that produces a line of 48 flavored and herbal teas.
Jan Burns, who runs the company with her husband, Howard, an artist who produces all the artwork for the company, and friend Kathleen Chilton, said when they first started exhibiting at the Fancy Food Show, there were only 15 to 20 tea companies there. "Now there are 120," she said.
Ms. Stoddard is not surprised there is a new interest in tea. "The renaissance in tea has a direct connection to the spiritual hunger in this country. We're going about it all the wrong way, trying to do things faster and faster."
What people really need to do, Ms. Stoddard said, is slow down. Stop. Take three minutes or 30 minutes, and just savor the ritual of preparing the tea, the aroma of the tea, the sense of the present moment.
"I think it's very civilized," said Laura Norris, owner with her husband, Tony, of Bertha's restaurant in Fells Point, which has been serving afternoon tea to serenity-seeking customers for about 20 years. "There's nothing quite like it for a break in the day."
"I was thinking the other day that people really get bored with going out to lunch," said Martha Royall, co-owner with her daughter Betsy of Taylor Royall Catering and Carryout Cuisine in Towson. But taking tea, she said, would be a different matter. "It's being able to have a little quiet time, it's a time to give &L; yourself a little indulgence."
People have been indulging in tea for 5,000 years: The legend is that a Chinese emperor was drinking a cup of boiled water in his garden when a leaf from a nearby bush blew into the cup. Tea traveled over the centuries throughout the world, and is now the second most-consumed beverage; water is first.
Today tea is produced in about 35 countries around the world. India is the top producer (703,931 metric tons in 1992), followed by China (559,827 metric tons), and Kenya (188,072 metric tons).
Tea time seems to be increasingly on the agenda for Americans. Total tea sales were about $3.75 billion last year, up from $2.1 billion in 1990.
"Tea is a very versatile beverage," said Joseph Simrany, president of the Tea Council. "It means different things to different people." Some people drink it for relaxation, and some people drink it for refreshment. "A lot of people drink it to be de-stressed," Mr. Simrany said.
And besides, there are many people who believe tea is good for you. "It has virtually no calories, no carbonation, there's nothing harmful in it," said Mr. Simrany. "It's natural."
There is a growing body of evidence that tea provides positive health benefits. Reports presented at a symposium sponsored by the Tea Council said tea contains fluoride, antioxidants and beneficial plant compounds like those found in garlic or broccoli. Tea may help prevent tooth decay, fight cancer, lower cholesterol, lower blood pressure and aid metabolism.
News of tea's beneficial effects comes at a time when the nation seems obsessed with nutrition. People are "beginning to watch what they put in their mouths. And tea has half the caffeine of coffee," said Eastern Shore Tea's Ms. Burns.
For people who are becoming choosier about their beverages, there are plenty of tea choices in the market. Sutton Place Gourmet, which carries dozens of teas in its stores in Pikesville and in the Washington area, is in the process of re-evaluating its tea selection, to keep the mix contemporary and to be sure only the best teas are represented, said Claude Mallinger, a vice president and director of buying. The international clientele of the D.C. stores had guaranteed a wide market for specialty teas, but now, he said, "I think American customers are giving indications of an interest in tea."
Among Sutton Place's selection are teas by Ferris and Roberts, Betjeman and Barton, and Harney and Sons. "We sold a lot of Republic of Tea at Christmas -- of course, the packaging is gorgeous," Mr. Mallinger said.
There is some evidence that folks in Baltimore have always known what the rest of the country is just discovering. "There has been a resurgence of tea in the last couple of years" in the publishing industry, said Arlene Gillis, owner of Books for Cooks at Harborplace. Besides Ms. Stoddard's book, she noted two other recent books on the subject ("A Cozy Book of Herbal Teas," by Mindy Tommay, Prima, $12; and "French Tea," by Carole Manchester, William Morrow, $17), and another one due in June ("Making Your Own Gourmet Tea Drinks," by Mathew Tekulsky, Crown, $12).
However, she said, "I've always sold a lot of doing-tea books. Maybe we're just ahead of the times here. Maybe it's our English heritage."
"We have a lot of customers who are accustomed to buying European-type items," said Dana Spatafore, store manager of Graul's market in Ruxton. "We've always carried a pretty extensive line of teas." He has noticed a tendency for their established lines, such as Bigelow and Twinings, to come up with new blends, he said. Otherwise, he said, "it's been a steady ride."
"Ever since we started tea we've been surprised how steady our tea business has been," said Ms. Norris of Bertha's. "And the people who come are from different backgrounds: We get students, little old ladies, businessmen. I have seen a difference in the number of large parties," she said. Office parties, going-away parties and parties for expectant mothers are popular afternoon gatherings. "It's at the right time of day."
Home-baked treats are nice, but not essential for a home-based tea party, Ms. Stoddard said. "People love tea parties . . . and you can serve cookies out of a tin." It is also, she said, the least expensive way to entertain. "Try to throw a tea party for $25 -- you can do it."
It is important, however, even if you are the only tea-party guest, to have a pretty tray, pretty cups and saucers, pretty accessories such as linens and spoons, Ms. Stoddard said. That's part of what is there to consider. "Beauty inspires us. It makes us better than we would be without it," she said.
Ms. Royall loves the romantic, decorative aspect of serving tea, and the indulgence of small treats. ("If you're on a diet," she said, "it's a good way to eat without a lot of calories. You just have a little of this, a little of that.")
At a proper tea party, Ms. Royall said, "Music is very important. Light classical music adds just the right note."
For the menu, she dreams of an assortment of foods -- "If I were going all out" -- that includes sandwiches of smoked salmon, of English cucumber and radishes, curried chicken tarts, potted Stilton cheese and toasted croutons, ham and cheese in puff pastry, wine biscuits, cheeses and fruits, scones and Devonshire cream with blueberry preserves, lemon bars, chocolate macaroons, meringues and strawberries and orange poppy seed cake with Grand Marnier and fresh fruit.
If you're planning to brew tea, Mr. Mallinger suggests using pure spring water, or filtered tap water. "Water is a big factor in the quality of the tea," he said.
However you serve it, whether your tea party is for one person or two dozen, you may find yourself easing into a state of "Tea Mind." That's the term coined by the Republic of Tea's Mel Ziegler in his book (co-written with wife, Patricia, and partner, Bill Rosenzweig) "The Republic of Tea: How an Idea Becomes a Business" (Currency/Doubleday, 1992, $22.50). He used it to describe the spiritual quality that comes with a good cup of tea: "If a sip of tea brings me, however briefly, to enter things as they are, I have been transported outside myself, into perfection itself. And I have known a cup of tea to do just this thing. The best of many good praises that can be sung for tea is that it creates Tea Mind."
Tea time in Baltimore
Bertha's, 734 S. Broadway, Fells Point, (410) 327-5795. Tea and freshly baked sweet and savory pastries and breads. Hours: 3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays, $7.50 per person. By reservation only.
Harbor Court Hotel, 550 Light St., Inner Harbor, (410) 234-0550. Tea, tea sandwiches, scones, fresh fruit and pastries. Hours: 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays, served in Brighton's; 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. Sundays, served in the Explorers Lounge. $14 per person. By reservation.
Old Waverly History Exchange & Tea Room, 414 E. 31st St., (410) 889-7112. Vegetarian, English-style tea with sweet and savory dishes. Hours: 3 p.m. Fridays, 2:15 p.m. and 4 p.m. Saturdays. (Large parties any day, by arrangement.) $10 a person, including tax and gratuity. By reservation only.
STYLED BY JULIE ROTHMAN. SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE LATHAM HOTEL.