Coq au Vin is king of cold-weather entrees

THE BALTIMORE SUN

Luscious party entrees that can be made in advance are a cook's best friend. And Coq au Vin, a scrumptious Burgundian red-wine chicken "stew" garnished with pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon, is the king of do-ahead cold-weather entrees.

The dish can be prepared as much as two days in advance and popped in the refrigerator; it can be reheated on top of the stove or in a 350-degree oven for about 40 minutes. In fact, making it ahead, giving the various flavors an opportunity to meld, seems to make it even better.

Last-minute kitchen chores can be minimal: Cook some rice or noodles, toss a green salad and slice a loaf of crusty French bread.

Our version, Reality Coq au Vin, is perfect for weekend dinner parties or any gathering where advance preparation is preferred. If you're seeking a quick dish, try Weekday Quick Coq au Vin made with boneless chicken breast halves. It's not as tasty as the party version -- but it goes together quickly and tastes nice with buttered egg noodles and broccoli spears.

Reality Coq au Vin

Makes 6 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil, divided use

jTC 1 tablespoon butter, divided use

2 ounces pancetta, finely diced, see cook's notes

8 ounces fresh wild mushrooms, sliced (if large) or cut in half, see cook's notes

8 ounces domestic "button" mushrooms, halved if small, quartered if large

1 (3 1/2 pound) chicken, cut into serving pieces (or equivalent weight in meaty thighs and breasts)

6 ounces small white onions, trimmed and peeled, see cook's notes

1/4 cup finely chopped carrot

1/4 cup finely chopped onion

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups full-bodied, dry red wine, see cook's notes

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

leaves from 2 large sprigs of fresh thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)

1 cup chicken broth

garnish: fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

Cook's notes: Pancetta is a spicy Italian-style bacon. If you prefer, substitute lean bacon. Shiitake, portobello and oyster mushrooms work well. Fresh pearl onions take time to peel; substitute 1 cup frozen pearl (or petite) onions, defrosted.

You don't have to cook with high-priced wine; instead, use a less expensive wine with compatible qualities. "Cooking wine" is generally inferior and often has salt added to it. Some California zinfandels work well, as do French red Burgundies.

Procedure: In a heavy, heat-proof casserole, place half the olive oil. Add pancetta and saute until crisp. Remove pancetta with a slotted spoon and place on paper towel. Add half the butter to the casserole. Add mushrooms and saute on high heat until any liquid evaporates and mushrooms are cooked. Remove mushrooms with a slotted spoon. If casserole is dry, add remaining olive oil and butter. Add chicken, fat side down, and small onions; brown on medium-high heat on all sides. Remove chicken and onions with a slotted spoon. Add carrot and onion; saute until tender on medium heat, stirring frequently, until onion is softened. Stir in flour and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes on medium heat. Stir in wine and bring to simmer. Add thyme, chicken and pancetta. Add mushrooms and broth.

Cover and simmer over low heat for 50 minutes. At this point the sauce will be thin. Remove chicken with a slotted spoon and reduce sauce, boiling until thickened. Taste and add salt and pepper if necessary. Return chicken to sauce and heat.

Advance preparation: Cook as directed, but don't reduce the sauce too much. Refrigerate. Reheat either on top of the stove or in a 350-degree oven for about 40 minutes. Monitor the amount of liquid. If the sauce looks as if it needs liquid, stir in additional chicken broth.

Weekday Quick Coq au Vin

Makes 2 servings

2 slices of bacon

2 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves

all-purpose flour

3/4 cup frozen pearl "petite" onions

1/3 cup dry red wine

1/3 cup canned chicken broth

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried

optional garnish: 8 ounces sliced fresh mushrooms sauteed in 2 tablespoons olive oil or butter until liquid evaporates and mushrooms are cooked

garnish: fresh parsley or fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

Procedure: In a medium skillet, cook bacon until crisp on medium heat. Remove with a slotted spoon and place bacon on paper towels. Crumble or chop bacon.

Season chicken with salt and pepper; coat chicken lightly with flour, shaking off excess.

Add chicken to same skillet and saute on medium-high heat until chicken is browned on all sides and almost cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Cooking time will vary, depending on the size and thickness of the chicken. Once the chicken is cooked and browned, remove it and set aside.

Remove all but about 1 tablespoon of fat. Add onions, red wine, broth and thyme, scraping brown bits from skillet. Bring to boil on high heat, reduce to a simmer uncovered until onions are tender and sauce has thickened slightly, 12 to 15 minutes. If you want to garnish this dish with sauteed mushrooms, prepare them while the sauce is cooking.

Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Return chicken to sauce and heat.

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