When I lived in Venezuela a decade ago, one of my biggest thrills was joining a friend on his 50-foot sailboat for a leisurely cruise to the islands of Los Roques, a little-visited Caribbean archipelago with white coral-sand beaches, fabulous snorkeling in turquoise waters, and some of the best bonefishing in the world. It was accessible only by private yacht.
Now, anyone can go to Los Roques simply by booking toll-free with a U.S.-based commercial outfitter that makes a regular run to the islands for sailing and fishing excursions.
I hate that my secret paradise has been "discovered," and worse, made so accessible.
But, if you crave an intimate vacation afloat, my loss is your gain -- and not just in Venezuela. Guided small-group sailing adventures, which afford participants the delicious experiences of the wealthy yachting set minus the huge expense and headaches of boat ownership, are the hottest new trend in cruising worldwide. They're the perfect option for those who don't mind sharing deck space with a few strangers -- usually between four and 20 other passengers, depending on the boat and location. It also helps to be flexible about cabin size, food choices (no multiple choice menus on most of these boats), and the sometimes rocky ride that on cruise liners usually is mitigated by mega-stabilizers.
"People on our trips usually have done traditional cruises and are seeking a more quiet vacation with personal attention" says Scott Swanson, owner of Lost World Adventures, a Georgia-based company that organizes sails in Los Roques. "They like the idea of someone else running the show -- doing all the cooking, navigating, and acting as guide -- they don't care about night life or shopping, and they love the chance to mingle with villagers or just keep to themselves as they choose."
But before you hasten to ship out, a word of warning. Small group travel, while providing wonderful opportunities for meeting new people, also requires an easygoing attitude toward your companions. On an 800-foot, six-deck cruise ship you can easily avoid people who irk you, but that is more difficult aboard a 40-foot sailboat. The situation can become particularly dicey when, say, smokers and non-smokers collide, so check ahead to see what policies are in place regarding potential problems. Also, since the limited number of passengers often means the operator is functioning under a tight profit margin, cancellations may be treated more strictly than on large ships; in fact you may lose your entire fare if you haven't arranged for cancellation insurance.
Los Roques
Lying 80 miles off the Venezuelan mainland, Los Roques National Park is a 556,000-acre stretch of some 365 mainly uninhabited islands. The offshore flats are perfect bonefishing grounds, and the extensive underwater reefs shelter tiny blue-green sergeant majors, huge Day-Glo parrot fish, delicate pink sea anemone and a wide range of coral formations.
Participants in Lost World Adventures' sailboat excursion to the islands fly to Caracas, then board a small charter plane for the 35-minute flight to the largest of the island group, where they transfer to a four-passenger, 42-foot sailboat with a crew of two. (Those who prefer land-based accommodations can stay at an island guest house, with day sailing trips.) The cruising pace is leisurely as the boat makes its way through the islands; there's plenty of time for snorkeling and (at an extra charge) diving. Guests also can visit the small local fishing village, mingling with the islanders -- with the help of the bilingual crew.
Those who want to fish can do so from small skiffs or by wading knee-deep along the sand flats. While fishing is possible on all trips, serious anglers may want to book one of the company's bonefishing excursions.
Unlike the other trips mentioned here, which usually involve signing on with strangers as boat-mates, the Los Roques excursions are basically yacht charters, accommodating two to four people. Options range from three-day, two-night sailing adventures (extra nights may be booked for a surcharge) to weeklong bonefishing excursions.
Queen Charlotte Islands
The Sierra Club has come a long way since its simple hiking outings in domestic mountain zones. The club's weeklong sailing safari around British Columbia's heavily forested Queen Charlotte Islands gives a maximum 15 participants a close-up view of some of North America's most pristine wildlife habitats as well as an introduction to the Haida Indians who inhabit the region and are known for their huge totem pole carvings.
Guests are based aboard a 68-foot ketch with eight double cabins, three shared bathrooms with hot showers, and a large lounge, with an extensive natural history library. The two naturalist guides double as crew. The boat also is equipped with an inflatable dinghy for shore excursions, fishing gear (cod, red snapper and salmon are abundant) and a pair of two-person kayaks, which can be used for reconnoitering when the sailboat is at anchor. The area is particularly rich in bald eagles, puffins, whales, sea lions and porpoises. Plus, the islands' old-growth forests provide fine hiking.
Coast of Turkey
You'd be hard-pressed to find more captivating sailing grounds than Turkey's southern Turquoise Coast. Craggy coastlines, ancient Greco-Roman ruins, cozy Mediterranean anchorages, forested trails and a culturally rich populace make for a full plate of sensual and educational fare. Idaho-based Remote Odysseys Worldwide is in its 12th year of running cruises aboard traditional Turkish gulets, 70-foot, wide-beamed, wooden motor-sailers that accommodate 11 guests. There are six double cabins with private baths and plenty of deck space for lounging and watching the passing scene.
Hours of coastal cruising are interspersed with swimming and snorkeling stops at quiet coves, lunches at seaside villages, excursions to ruins, and hiking through inland forests and mountain areas. At one stop, the group travels by minivan to a mountain community for lunch in the home of a Turkish family. The boat anchors in isolated bays as well as small towns where guests can go ashore to stroll the waterfront or visit the neighborhood tavernas.
Two itineraries are offered. The Aegean Mosaic, a 14-day trip taking in the more northerly section of the coast, includes eight days of cruising and four days on land. The more southerly 16-day Lycian Shore route entails 10 days of cruising. Both itineraries take in Istanbul an the ancient ruins at Ephesus.
Down East in Maine
Laid-back windjammer vacations have long been popular around coastal Maine, but now the owners of the 115-foot Stephen Taber, based in Rockland, are experimenting with a more active sailing experience: a weeklong hiking adventure through the Down East islands.
Traditional lobster bakes and shipboard parties are revved up with challenging treks on Isle au Haut, a tiny forested island that is part of Acadia National Park, and around the bays of Swan Island, Deer Isle and Mount Desert Island.
The Stephen Taber, circa 1871, is the oldest continuously operating sailing vessel in the United States, with lots of brass and mahogany, and 12 cabins accommodating 22 passengers. The ship's owners, Ken and Ellen Barnes, run the boat like a floating country inn -- very informal with lots of homemade soups, breads and other cozy touches.
Cabins are comfortable but small -- "Like camping on the ocean, only better," says Ellen.
In addition to the hiking trip, the Stephen Taber makes weekly departures June through September, all of which include time for independent treks ashore for those who are so inclined.
Women of the sea
The Learn-to-Sail cruises run by California-based Women for Sail "are not boot camp," says the company's Jill London. In particular, the 10-day women-only programs in Corsica/Sardinia and the Greek Islands are designed to allow guests -- up to six students per 40- to 45-foot boat -- to participate as much or as little as they like in the sailing process. "They can skip whatever they want and just relax and have fun, but most guests really love the learning process," says Ms. London. Classroom and sailing instruction are interspersed with swimming, snorkeling and shore visits.
The Greece trip cruises the Saronic Gulf island group a short sail from Athens, taking in Hydra, a barren rock with grand mansions; Spetses, covered with pine forests; Poros, with pretty white-washed houses; and Aegina, mountainous and heavily forested. After the sail, the group moves on to Athens for three days of sightseeing.
The Corsica/Sardinia trip cruises out of Porto Vecchio on the east coast of the French island of Corsica heading south to Italy's Sardinia. The trip offers views of mile-high mountains, isolated lagoons and ancient villages atop white cliffs. The final three days are spent on Corsica, with its classy seaside resorts and lush mountain and forest interior.
The company also runs 10-day learn-to-sail trips in Thailand, weeklong trips to the Virgin Islands, and three- to seven-day programs around Key West, San Diego, and Annapolis.
IF YOU GO
Except where noted, prices are per person, double occupancy and do not include airfare. Some meals and pre- or post-trip accommodations also may cost extra. Call for departure locations:
Lost World Adventures: (800) 999-0558. Three-day, two-night charters in Venezuela's Los Roques Islands depart year-round. Price: $595 per person; extra nights, $195 per night per person. Scuba gear surcharge is $83 per day. Weeklong Los Roques bonefishing trip, including four days of fishing, costs $1,460 per person.
Remote Odysseys Worldwide: (800) 451-6034. Two-week Aegean Mosaic trips along Turkey's Turquoise coast with eight days of sailing depart May 20, June 10, July 1 and Sept. 2.
Price: $1,990 to $2,490, depending on date and number of participants. Sixteen-day Lycian Shore trips with 10 days on the boat depart Sept. 16 and Oct. 1. Price $2,250 to $2,600. A family trip led by R.O.W. president Peter Grubb runs Oct. 1-14. Price not yet determined.
Sierra Club: Outing Department, 730 Polk St., San Francisco, Calif. 94109; (415) 923-5522. Weeklong sailing trip in British Columbia's Queen Charlotte Islands (No. 95074) departs May 26. Price, $1,795.
Stephen Taber Windjammer: (800) 999-7352. Weeklong hiking and sailing trip in Down East Maine departs Sept. 4. Price $675. Other trips not specifically designated as hiking programs depart weekly June through September at the same price.
Wilderness Travel: (800) 368-2794. Seventeen-day sailing trips along Turkey's Turquoise Coast depart May 12, June 2, June 9 (family trip), and June 18, July 1, Sept. 1, Sept 8, Sept. 19 and Sept. 29, and Oct. 1. Price: $2,395 to $2,855, based on date and number of guests.
Women for Sail: (800) 346-6404. Ten-day learn-to-sail program in the Greek islands departs May 20. Price: $1,995. Ten-day Corsica/Sardinia sail departs June 10. Price $1,995. Ten-day Thailand sail departs April 22. Price: $2,195. Weeklong Virgin Islands sail departs March 25, April 1, July 8, and Nov. 11. Price $1,395. Weeklong programs around Key West depart year-round; weeklong San Diego trips depart May 20, July 8, Aug. 12, Oct. 14, and Nov. 11; weeklong Annapolis trips depart May 27, June 3 and June 24, July 22, and Aug. 19. Weekly price for above programs is $845 to $945, depending on date. Shorter trips also are available.