Textured separates shape up nicely despite emphasis on dresses

THE BALTIMORE SUN

Q: I know that dresses are big news for spring. But I am rail thin, and all the dresses I've tried on just hang on me. Most of the fabrics are so thin that even when the skirts are A-line my hip bones stick out. Should I give up and stay with separates?

A: Yes. Dresses may be the fastest way of dressing, but separates are the most versatile. And there are plenty of good-looking ones around.

In fact Rome-based designer Valentino says he has done some of the sexiest in seasons:

"This season I have dedicated my collection to bringing back femininity, and the sweater is a star for both day and evening."

One thing to remember when you shop is to look for fabrics with texture. They not only look rich, they will also add inches to your undersize frame.

Q: I am going to an opera gala, which is the biggest event on our social calendar. I have three beaded dresses which I rotate for big parties, but my husband says he's tired of them and wants me to buy something different. I'm at a loss because I don't like dressing up. Most of the time I wear pants.

A: I think you should surprise your husband by wearing exactly what he does -- a tuxedo. They are always in fashion and this spring come in pretty neutrals as well as black.

Victor Alfaro, one of New York's up-and-coming evening-wear designers, agrees. He warns, however, that if you buy a neutral, make sure it will mix easily with other shades:

"Start with a well-cut tuxedo jacket and matching trousers. It's a look that you can wear in any city of the world. Then try pairing the jacket with different trousers, with narrow satin pants, a knee-length skirt, shorts or even a sheath dress. You can also change your accessories to dress the outfit up or down, depending on the occasion."

Some accessory ideas: an outsize silk flower on the lapel of the jacket, the biggest drop earrings you can find, rows of beads worn with nothing else under the jacket.

Q: I want to buy a backless dress for spring, but I have large breasts and must wear a bra to be comfortable. Are there bras that work with backless dresses?

A: Several large companies make bras to wear with backless gowns. New York designer Josie Natori suggests trying a bustier-style strapless bra: "It is comfortable, and it has the added advantage of helping to keep your waist trim."

Another style is the Merry Widow made by Gossard, the British lingerie company. It has smooth lines on the torso and detachable garter and shoulder straps.

Look for these styles at department stores, and try them on to make sure you're comfortable -- before you buy the dress.

Q: After my children left home to start their own families, I found myself with time on my hands and took up making pins from old watch parts and cast-off jewelry. My friends tell me my designs are terrific, and I've had many strangers stop me to comment on them. My question is: How do I go about selling them to stores?

A: Most beginning designers have a representative who handles the marketing of their work. The representatives get a commission on whatever they sell.

To get advice for you on finding a rep I went to Caron Erickson, a jewelry designer and co-owner of New York's Showroom 7, which represents about 25 designers.

She said the first thing you should do is display your work so professionals can see it: "A good place to do this is at the annual Fashion Accessory Expo (FAE) in Connecticut. It is inexpensive to show and is well-attended by representatives who may like your work and want to do business with you."

Ms. Erickson suggests, however, that you hold off making an agreement until you have enough feedback to know which pieces are likely to sell and enough inventory to supply customers, adding: "You could also try your local department stores. You should first ask if the buyers are allowed to purchase from local designers. If so, then call the buyer and ask to show your jewelry."

Ms. Erickson does caution against putting your pieces on consignment. She says, "That is a no-win situation for anyone but the store."

Elsa Klensch welcomes questions from readers. While she cannot reply individually, she will answer those of general interest in her column. Send questions to Elsa Klensch, Los Angeles Times Syndicate, Times-Mirror Square, Los Angeles, Calif. 90053.

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