Most people come to St. Barthelemy for its exquisite beaches. I come here to cook. French West Indians cook with an uncomplicated palate: a squeeze of fresh lime juice here, a splash of rum there, a generous hand with garlic, thyme and the Caribbean chives called cives.
West Indian Pumpkin Soup
Look for calabazas at Hispanic or West Indian markets. If unavailable, use a firm northern squash, such as butternut or Hubbard.
Makes about 7 cups; serves 6
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped (1 tablespoon)
1/2 Scotch bonnet chili (or other very hot fresh chili), seeded and finely chopped
5 cups defatted reduced-sodium chicken stock
1 1/2 pounds calabaza or butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces (4 cups)
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 tablespoon brown sugar, plus more to taste
1/2 cup reduced-fat sour cream, plus 3 tablespoon for garnish
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped chives or scallion greens for garnish
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne) for garnish
Heat oil in a Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat. Add onions, celery and carrots; cook until soft but not brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic and chilies and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in stock, squash, parsley, bay leaves, thyme and sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until the vegetables are very soft, 25 to 30 minutes. Discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs.
Puree the soup in a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, until very smooth. Add a little water if the soup is too thick. (The soup can be made ahead to this point and kept covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.)
Return the soup to the pot and stir in 1/2 cup sour cream. Simmer the soup for 3 minutes. Adjust seasonings, adding brown sugar, salt and pepper to taste.
To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Garnish each portion with 1/2 tablespoon dollop of sour cream, some chives or scallions and a dusting of red pepper. Serve at once.
Calories per serving: 143; 3 grams protein; 5 grams fat, 22 grams carbohydrate; 794 milligrams sodium; 10 milligrams cholesterol
Shrimp Creole
I have adapted a favorite recipe for conch creole to shrimp because conch can be hard to find in the U.S.
Makes 6 servings
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
3 bunches chives or 12 scallions, finely chopped (2 cups)
4 shallots, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped (2 tablespoon)
1-2 Scotch bonnet chilies (or other very hot fresh chilies), seeded and finely chopped
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons curry powder, preferably Madras
large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced (about 2 1/4 pounds)
1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
1/3 cup dark rum
1 cup fish stock or bottled clam juice
2 tablespoons tomato paste
18 jumbo or 24 large shrimp (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add onions, chives or scallions, shallots, all but 1 teaspoon of the garlic, chilies, ginger and curry powder. Cook, stirring, until just beginning to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, 1/2 cup of the parsley, cilantro, thyme and bay leaf. Increase heat to high and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in rum and bring to a boil. Add fish stock or clam juice and tomato paste. Reduce heat and simmer until thickened and well-flavored, about 10 minutes. (The onion-tomato mixture can be made ahead to this point and kept covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 day. Return vegetable mixture to a simmer before proceeding.)
Meanwhile, place shrimp in a shallow glass dish and toss with 2 tablespoon lime juice, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Stir the marinated shrimp into the onion-tomato mixture. Gently simmer over low heat, turning occasionally, until the shrimp are curled and opaque, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon garlic. Taste and adjust seasonings with lime juice, salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup parsley and serve at once.
Calories per serving: 160; 7 grams protein; 4 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrate; 295 milligrams sodium; 32 milligrams cholesterol
Coconut Rice
Canned coconut milk gives this rice a subtle creaminess. The "lite" variety is available in many large supermarkets. If you cannot find it, substitute 1/4 cup regular unsweetened coconut milk mixed with 1/2 cup water.
Makes 6 servings
1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil, preferably canola oil
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger
2 cups long-grain white rice
3/4 cup "lite" coconut milk
1 teaspoon salt
Heat oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic and ginger and cook, stirring, until fragrant but not brown, about 45 seconds. Add rice and cook, stirring, until the grains are shiny, about 1 minute.
Add coconut milk, salt and 2 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until all of the liquid is absorbed and the grains are tender, 18 to 20 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.
Calories per serving: 250; 5 grams protein; 3 grams fat; 51 grams carbohydrate; 359 milligrams sodium; 0 milligrams cholesterol