1993 Verget St. Veran ($13)

Inexpensive "village wines" from shippers of Burgundy can be a chancy proposition. Often these cheap "white Burgundies" are no value at all. Verget is a glorious exception. All of its wines are taken seriously, even the Macon-Villages and St. Verans at the bottom of the chardonnay food chain. The St. Veran is an intensely ripe, rich wine with ample toast and a uniquely Burgundian elegance. The St. Veran is merely the best value of the three Vergets I tried. The Macon-Villages didn't have quite the impact, the Pouilly-Fuisse was a little pricey at $18. All are very good, but the best bang for your buck is this.