Consumers discouraged by a barrage of news reports that make it seem almost every food they love is bad for them -- milk, coffee, eggs, butter, burritos, and kung pao chicken, just to name a few on recent hit lists -- can rejoice in a bit of good news.
Olive oil is good for you. It's especially good for women, a new report says, because "alone among fat types," olive oil appears to reduce the risk of getting breast cancer. The assessment is based on a study of women in Greece, where olive oil is widely used in cooking.
The incidence of breast cancer in Greece is 40 percent lower than it is in the United States, where one in 10 women can expect to develop the disease. The study in Greece found that women who had consumed olive oil several times a day were far less likely to have gotten breast cancer than women who consumed olive oil just once a day or less.
According to the study's author, Dr. Dimitrios Trichopoulis of the Harvard School of Public Health in Boston, part of the reason may be because olive oil is less easily oxidized than polyunsaturated fats and contains lots of antioxidant vitamins and other compounds, including vitamin E.
The news is especially good for cooks, because olive oil is delicious and versatile. It's true it's 100 percent fat, so people who are watching their weight will still have to be careful about calories, but olive oil can be substituted in almost any case for other fats that are less beneficial.
Olive oil comes in three different varieties: full-flavored extra virgin; milder 100 percent olive oil; neutral-tasting light or extra light. Baltimore-based Pompeian, Inc., which imports olive oil and bottles it for sale across the country, offers these tips on substituting olive oil:
* Use extra virgin olive oil on bread (even morning toast) and in marinades and vinaigrettes, where the olive taste is desirable. It also can be used in baking flavorful savory desserts such as carrot cake and pumpkin bread.
* Use 100 percent olive oil on steamed vegetables (especially good if you provide lemon wedges for diners to splash on a little lemon juice) and in muffin recipes. Also can be used with milder-flavored foods, such as delicate fish or veal.
* Use light or extra light olive oil in light sauces, pound cake and drop cookie recipes.
Use of olive oil has also been linked to lowered incidence of atherosclerosis, high blood pressure and high blood glucose. Want more information on olive oil and nutrition? Call the Olive Oil Hotline, a project of the International Olive Oil Council and the Cornell University Medical College Nutrition Information Center. The number is (800) 232 OLIVE-OIL (use the letter O when dialing). Hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Eastern time Monday through Friday.
Here are some recipes to get you started thinking about ways to use more olive oil in your daily diet. The first two are from Pompeian.
Carrot Cake
Serves 10 to 12
1 2/3 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/3 cups sugar
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup milk
3 eggs
2 cups grated carrots
2/3 cup pecans, chopped
Heat oven to 375 degrees.
Sift first 5 ingredients. Mix with the next 4 ingredients and beat for three minutes. Add carrots and pecans.
Pour batter into 10-inch greased and floured cake pan.
Bake for 40 minutes, or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
Cool slightly, then turn onto rack and cool completely. May be frosted if desired.
Marinated Lamb Brochettes
Serves six
24 cubes of spring lamb
1 large red onion, cut in 1-inch pieces
2-3 green peppers, cut in 1-inch pieces
MARINADE:
1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoon garlic, minced
2 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon fresh black pepper
Mix all marinade ingredients in pan large enough to hold skewers. Alternate lamb, onion and green pepper pieces on skewers and marinate over night.
Broil, grill or saute skewers for 5 minutes on each side. Should be served rare.
The next two recipes are from "Italy: The Vegetarian Table," by Julia della Croce (Chronicle Books, 1994, $19.95).
Pasta and Lentil Soup
Serves four
6 cups water
1 1/4 cups ( 1/2 pound) dried lentils, rinsed and picked over
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, scraped and cut into small dice
2 celery stalks, leaves removed, cut into small dice
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups canned tomatoes in puree, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt, plus salt to taste
1/4 pound spaghetti, broken into 1-inch lengths
1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground fresh pepper
In a soup kettle, combine water, lentils, onion, carrot, celery, garlic and tomatoes. Add olive oil, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, until lentils are tender, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, fill a saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and cook the spaghetti until tender but still quite firm (al dente), about 7 minutes. Drain the pasta and add it to the lentils. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Ladle into soup bowls. Serve immediately.
Bean Salad
Serves four
1 cup dried cannellini beans or Great Northern beans
DRESSING:
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped sweet red or Vidalia onion
1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram, or 1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh black pepper
Pick over beans and discard any discolored or damaged ones. Put in a large bowl and add cold water to cover by 3 inches. Let stand at room temperature for a minimum of 4 hours, or for as long as over night. Drain, put in a pot with fresh water to cover by 3 inches. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to simmer. Cover partially and cook until beans are tender but not falling apart, about 1 hour. Drain beans well and put in a serving bowl.
In a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients for the dressing, mixing well. Toss the dressing with the beans and serve.
The next two recipes are from "Spur of the Moment Cook," by Perla Meyers (William Morrow, 1994, $25).
Sauteed Scallops in Cumin-Tomato Fondue
Serves four
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons finely minced shallots
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced
2 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 pound large shiitake mushrooms, stemmed
1 pound small sea scallops, dried on paper towels
juice of 1/2 lime, or more to taste
3 tablespoons tiny fresh cilantro leaves for garnish
Heat oven to 400 degrees.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add tomatoes, chili powder, cumin, season with salt and pepper, and simmer, partially covered, for 20 minutes or until all liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat.
While the tomatoes are simmering, place the mushrooms on a baking sheet, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil, and roast for 10 minutes. Cut into 1/4 -inch slices and set aside.
Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the scallops, without crowding the skillet, and saute about 2 minutes a side, until nicely browned. Add the tomato sauce together with the mushrooms and lime juice and just heat through. Correct seasoning, adding more lime juice if necessary. Serve hot, garnished with tiny leaves of cilantro.
Balsamic Vinegar And Shallot Dressing
Serves six
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons finely minced shallots
coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Combine vinegar and shallots in a medium bowl. Season with coarse salt and pepper and whisk until well-blended. Slowly add oil, whisking constantly until smooth.