New fabrics work for ancient poncho

THE BALTIMORE SUN

Q: I like ponchos. To me, as a comfortably sized woman, they are both practical and chic. I hear they are back in fashion, and I want a new one that will go everywhere over anything and also look good. Any suggestions?

A: I don't think ponchos ever go out of fashion. They were surely one of the first garments made by man, and they've been around ever since.

Malaysian-born designer Yeohlee, who is best known for the clean architectural cut of her coats, is also a poncho fan.

"A good poncho must function and yet have style," she says. "It should keep out the wind and rain and yet have as much presence as a well-cut coat."

Yeohlee cuts her poncho in modern fabrics.

"I like the idea of linen oilcloth, a modern fabric. It's light to wear. It can make a strong color statement and, most important, it is seasonless."

Yeohlee believes that a poncho hood should come off in an instant, and she adds, "The real test of a modern poncho is whether you can use it as a cover-up at the beach or simply lie on it to sun-bake."

Q: I am 28, tall, slim and have dyed my hair a white-blond. I think the color is striking, and it certainly helps me in my job at a travel agency. Clients, both men and women, often call and say they want to speak with "the blonde" when they don't remember my name. That's one reason I don't want to change.

I have always bought just a few clothes for work, and my wardrobe consists of classy gray suits. My problem is that lately several clients have told me that gray makes me look tired and washed out. How can I brighten up the gray with other colors that will look good with my hair? I want to stay with neutrals as my blond hair looks flashy with brights.

A: Korean-born designer Cathy Hardwick recommends adding a touch of black to your wardrobe.

"Nothing looks sexier or more dramatic than black with blond hair. You can wear a black turtleneck or a black silk shirt with your jacket, or even pin a black flower on the lapel.

"Since you are tall and slim, a black dress might be perfect. It will be striking, not flashy."

Ms. Hardwick suggests that white or navy also look good with gray. "To expand your choices, experiment by holding pieces of different fabrics against your chest and face. Look in the mirror and see which suit you best. I prefer dark colors for light blond hair, but you many find some surprises that are just right for you."

Q: I love knits because they are so comfortable. But I never seem to find a knit dress the right size. They are always too small. My problem is I live in a small Midwest town and order by mail. How can I buy through catalogs and get the right fit on the first try? I'm tired of having to send merchandise back and forth.

A: Ordering clothing by mail or TV can often be disillusioning.

For advice I contacted Ann Morris of Spiegel Inc., one of the largest mail-order suppliers in the United States.

She tells me that a rule of thumb is: "If you fall on the borderline between two sizes, order the larger size. This is especially true with knits, because they have a tendency to cling to your body."

Ms. Morris also suggests that you familiarize yourself with the catalog's size scale. "While unfortunately there is not a universal scale, this is a good guide. Take your measurements -- bust, waist and low hip -- and match them up with the measurement chart provided in the catalog."

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