This is a season of feasts, and there is no better way to end a feast than with a luscious dessert wine, concentrated by the flavorful influence of botrytis, the "noble rot." These wines are generally expensive, but one exception is Peter Lehmann's Australian variation of the classic formula of France's Sauternes region. This luscious, honeyed wine with ample tastes of apricot, orange, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, banana ends in a wave of refreshing acidity that prevents it from being cloying. It just lingers and lingers on the palate.
1992 Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Botrytis Semillon Sauternes ($11/half bottle)
Michael DresserTHE BALTIMORE SUN
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