The birds are back. The Hawaiian Monk Seals are back. The glamour hotels have already had elegant face lifts and in some cases, new management and new money have put up the bucks to bring Kauai back and make it even better -- a long way from the unexpected flagellation of Iniki, the dreaded hurricane that whipped through Kauai on Sept. 11, 1992.
The sanctuary and beauty of this tiny ancient kingdom was never really destroyed -- this, after all, is no lava adolescent. Kauai has more than 60 million years of geological sculpturing under her verdant skirts. The hurricane, in lieu of this, was a minor but very discomforting setback.
hTC Some of the more philosophical Kauaians, a close-knit, hardy breed to begin with, felt that Mother Nature's intent was to create a giant pruning. Idealistic as that may be, the result is a land of very fresh, unspoiled beauty, where you can savor the fragrance of the rain forest and the sweet smell of creamy, star-clustered plumeria blossoms blooming everywhere in rainbow-edged petals.
Though dozens of tin-roofed homes in rural areas have been replaced with sturdier materials, Kauai is still country -- mom-and-pop stores, colorful Filipino pig hunters and tiny old churches. The kids still eat shaved ice and tourists still marvel at the cobalt waves rolling in.
Though with small exception, most of Kauai is beautiful, nature is ravishing on the North Shore. Nostalgia buffs may remember that the shore's Lumahai Beach is where Mitzi Gaynor "washed that man right out of her hair . . ." in "South Pacific." By definition, the North Shore takes in only about 15 miles of road and 11 miles of hiking down the coast trails, but you can get happily "lost" here for weeks. The recovery from Hurricane Iniki here has been truly inspired, and the drive is spectacular -- jagged Bali Hai mountains, secluded beaches and wilderness supreme.
Up toward Princeville, almost all the cozy, old cliff-side condominiums were destroyed by the hurricane. Most have been rebuilt. My personal favorite, Pali Ke Kua, already has some units reopened, with fresh paint, all new interiors and appliances. Insiders know that Pali Ke Kua embraces Hideaway Beach, with two trails that lead down, one a paved pathway on the right, or a more rugged dirt path on the left. Both these short hikes will bring you to pebble-edged, wind-swept beaches, where you'll probably only have sea turtles for company in the summer, and rough seas and sea birds to watch in the winter.
Wildlife, it seems, is better adapted to handle natural disasters than humans.
The Laysan albatross have created a new nesting colony along Kauai's north coast. The boobies and shearwater sea birds have settled back in at Kilauea Point Natural Refuge, and are doing so well that the popular North Shore attraction is now open for tours between 10 a.m and 3 p.m. on weekdays so that visitors may once again see soaring sea birds and spectacular coastal scenery.
Robert Trent Jones courses
Princeville Resort is looking better all the time. It's been refurbished at a cost of $35 million. Business has picked up substantially since the reopening in 1993. The look is less formal now, with muted peach and green tones softening the black and green marble and iron work retained from the old building.
Two Robert Trent Jones Jr. golf courses enhance the appeal of Princeville for the golfing set -- both the 27-hole Makai Course (rated the No. 7 golf course in Hawaii by Golf Digest) and the Prince Course (rated No. 1), which has a USGA course rating of 75.3 and a 145 slope -- which makes it the most challenging course in Hawaii.
For the adventurous trekker, summer and fall are the perfect time to visit the Na Pali Coast, getaway to famous Kalalau Trail, immortalized by writer Jack London in the powerful tale "Koolau the Leper." London traversed the rugged cliffs back in 1893, while writing about the famous Hawaiian outlaw band of leprosy victims led by the infamous Koolau, who had refused roundup and shipment to the remote leper colony on Molokai, another Hawaiian island. London described the Na Pali coast trail as a "knife-edged ridge a scant 12 inches wide."
In some places the trail is unchanged, so don't head down there unless you are in great physical condition and unafraid of heights. It takes about two days to hike down the 11-mile trail to reach the spectacular valley. You can also go by Zodiac boat or kayak if seas aren't too rough.
Zodiac treks
Na Pali Explorer is a new company based in Waimea, which offers morning and afternoon treks in a hard-bottom Zodiac, departing from Kikia'ola Harbor, which approaches the Na Pali coast from the Polihale side.
On morning trips, there is a chance to land at Kalalau, go into sea caves and under waterfalls -- sea conditions permitting. Afternoon treks are a little shorter. You'll get snacks, culture and history, maybe see sea turtles, spinner dolphins and flying fish at Kalalau.
Other easy hikes in this scenic area include a two-mile hike from Ke'e Beach to Hanakapiai Falls. The trail is sometimes steep, but it's on a wide, maintained road. You'll see a splendid green valley bursting with native flora and hala trees. The hala is often called "tourist pineapple" because the fruit bears a strong resemblance to the pineapple. If serious hiking is your thing, you can contact the Kauai chapter of the Sierra Club (call Bob Nishek at [808] 822-9238 in the evenings, and join up with locals who know all the best hidden places).
Glorious synchronicity
The quaint little village of Hanalei, whose name means "Crescent Bay," is across a narrow bridge down the road from Princeville. Hikers can explore routes along the river by foot, (unless the water levels are high), or rent a kayak.
Stop at the small, thick bamboo forest along the first stream. We always feel a glorious synchronicity in Hanalei, an orchestra of sounds -- trade winds, the twangy bamboo rustling -- and the sweet smell of yellow ginger that grows 9 feet tall.
IF YOU GO . . .
General Information: Call the Kauai hot line at (800) 262-1400. You can also fax your tourism questions -- (800) 637-5762 -- and get a prompt, faxed response.
Fly to Kauai: 20 minutes from Honolulu International Airport on Aloha Airlines; (800) 367-5250. Hawaiian Airlines: (800) 367-5320), Aloha Island Air, (800) 323-3345).
You can get a free Kauai Vacation Planner by calling (800) 245-2824.
Accommodations and Dining: Princeville Resort, (800) 826-9644); Pali Ke Kua, (808) 826-9066; Hanalei Bay Resort, (808) 826-6522, all offer good accommodations on the North Shore. At the moment, Hanalei Colony Resort along Haena Bech is the hot spot for a Hanalei stay. It's a 52-unit condominium set on the beach. The resort is a 90-minute drive from the airport at Lihue. Rates start at $95 a night. (800) 628-3004.