Brunch at the Pavilion at the Walters is so civilized.
This is, after all, one of the most beautiful dining rooms in Baltimore, if your taste runs to spare lines, soaring spaces and skylights. The fountain, with the bronze statue of a boy holding a panther cub, splashes soothingly in the background; and a classical guitarist performs on the mezzanine. No one, of course, raises his voice above a murmur.
You'll want to have a mimosa, made with what tastes like fresh orange juice and sparkling wine, while you study the brunch menu. This isn't one of those all-you-can-eat, serve-yourself, get-your-feet-in-the-trough affairs, but a selection of seven or so dishes that changes each weekend. (You can also order from the lunch menu if none of the brunch food appeals.)
You might begin with a first course of "seasonal fruits with select cheeses," which is a good example of what's right and what's wrong with the food here. The fruit looks lovely: fresh pineapple, slices of cantaloupe and honeydew, ruby red strawberries. And most of it is. Unfortunately, the honeydew is crunchy -- just not quite ripe enough. But it's the "select cheese" that disappoints; it's pre-sliced, including a couple of slices of what looks like American, not even Cheddar.
Oddly enough, a complicated dish like the Walters' variation on eggs Benedict is just about perfect. Two softly poached eggs are nestled on toast made from brioche bread. A tiny filet, pink with a delicious grilled flavor, is arranged with the eggs on a bed of sauteed spinach. A delicate hollandaise infused with sweet red pepper finishes the dish beautifully.
So why can't the kitchen make French toast? That's not quite true. It can make very good French toast, out of brioche bread, but it's smothered in a murky, too thick, too sweet apple raisin compote.
Two other dishes are right on target. A quiche Italiano has a flaky, buttery crust and a custardy filling flavored, but not overwhelmed, by oregano, chopped pepper, onions and bits of pepperoni. On the side, a good, simple salad. A tender omelet is bursting with chicken, sauteed mushrooms and a golden lava flow of melted havarti. A grilled andouille sausage on the side adds extra zing.
You can finish up with good cappuccino or espresso; but if you're feeling wicked, the Pavilion has a wonderful warm apple tart and a chocolate mousse flavored with orange liqueur in an almond cookie shell.
It's hard to generalize about the food, except to say it's uneven. But you can always count on a wonderful setting and good service. If you're lucky enough to order the right thing, you'll feel like you're in a four-star restaurant.
*
Pavilion at the Walters
Where: Walters Art Gallery, 600 N. Charles St.
Hours: Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
Credit cards accepted: Major credit cards
Features: Brunch
Non-smoking section? No smoking allowed
Call: (410) 727-2233
Prices: $7.95-$12.50
** 1/2