1992 Trentadue Old Patch Red, Alexander Valley ($11)

This old-fashioned California "field blend" is stuffed with flavor. It's a full-bodied, chewy melange of blackberry, black pepper, blueberry, earth, chocolate and coffee. It's concentrated a way you only find with wine from old vines. It's a masterpiece that you can drink young or sqirrel away for five years or so.