1993 Georges Duboeuf Morgon, Jean Descombes ($10)
The ultimate Beaujolais? Perhaps. In so many years this is the star of Georges Duboeuf's line of single-estate wines. The 1993 is a fine example. It offers unusual fullness for a Beaujolais, with terrific cherry and raspberry flavors and aromas that let you know how the term bouquet was applied to red wine. The Burgundy-like richness is balanced by racy acidity and, unlike most Beaujolais wines, it has the intensity to rival a fine pinot noir.