Chefs love salmon because it takes to so many forms of cooking. It can be grilled, broiled, baked, planked, poached, even eaten raw. It stands up to a wide range of both subtle and strong flavors. Here are a few recipes from West Coast chefs, as well as several tried-and-true ones from cookbooks.

Steve Chan, executive chef-partner of Martha's Restaurant & Cafe in the Pruneyard in Campbell, Calif., recently served this elegant and delicious salmon dish as a first course. This recipe appears challenging, but actually is easy and the results impressive.

Mousse-Stuffed Salmon in Phyllo

Serves 4

MOUSSE:

1 tablespoon milk

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 pound fresh sea scallops (not bay scallops)

1 egg white

1 tablespoon heavy cream

2 teaspoons fresh chives

pinch of salt and white pepper

SALMON:

4 fresh salmon fillets, about 4 ounces each, skinned and boned

5 sheets phyllo dough (see note)

melted clarified butter (see note)

SAUCE:

1 small sweet red pepper

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons white wine, vermouth or sherry

1 teaspoon sweet (not hot) paprika

1 teaspoon chopped shallots

1 cup heavy cream

4 ounces (1 stick) butter

salt and pepper to taste

Make the mousse by placing the milk and butter in a small saucepan and bringing to a boil. Add the flour and mix well. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring until it thickens. Set aside to cool.

Place the scallops in a food processor and add the cooled flour mixture. Puree until smooth. Add the egg white, pulsing until incorporated. Blend in the cream, then fold in the chives and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to assemble.

Up to 1 day ahead, prepare the dish for baking.

Spread scallop mousse evenly on top of each salmon fillet. Set aside. Place a sheet of phyllo on a clean, dry, work surface and, working quickly, brush lightly with clarified butter. Repeat 4 times, creating 5 layers. Using a sharp knife, cut this layered phyllo into 4 equal pieces.

Put a salmon fillet, mousse side down, in the center of each square of phyllo. Trim around the fish, leaving about 1 1/2 inches around the edges. You want just enough to tuck under the fillet, leaving the center of the bottom uncovered. Place each fillet that you have wrapped this way onto a buttered pan with the mousse side up and the phyllo edges tucked underneath. Brush top lightly with clarified butter. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Shortly before serving time, make the beurre blanc by roasting the red pepper over an open flame until the skin is black. Cool in a brown paper bag or bowl covered with plastic wrap to "steam" the skin, then peel and seed the pepper. Place the pepper with the vinegar and wine in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Pour the puree into a heavy saucepan. Add the paprika and shallots and reduce over medium-high heat by one-third. Add the cream and reduce again by a third or until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the butter, a few small chunks at a time. Salt and pepper to taste.

This sauce will break down if it is reheated; use immediately or pour into a thermos. Or put it into a glass container or crock, cover it and keep it warm by placing the container on a plate and in a warm area on or near the stove, but never over a direct flame.

To serve: Bake the salmon fillet parcels in a 425-degree oven for 12 to 14 minutes. Coat a heated plate with warm red pepper beurre blanc and top with baked salmon. Garnish with parsley; ** serve immediately.

Note: Phyllo dough is available in the freezer case of most supermarkets. It is very thin and dries out very quickly, so keep it covered with plastic wrap and work quickly. Defrost according to instructions on the package. To clarify butter, melt it slowly in a saucepan, skim off the foam and pour off the golden, clear liquid -- this is the clarified butter. Discard the solids at the bottom.

Get this salmon in foil (en papillote) ready to go up to a day ahead and pop it in the oven when guests arrive.

Salmon en Papillote

Serves 4

2 green onions, trimmed and sliced

1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced (reserve 4 for final presentation)

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup sake (see note)

1/8 cup tamari or soy sauce

1 pound salmon fillet, cut into 4-ounce portions

1 medium red onion, peeled and thinly sliced

2 large fennel bulbs, quartered, cored and thinly sliced

1 large ear of fresh corn, husk and silk removed, cut into 1/2 -inch-thick coins

4 plum tomatoes, cored and quartered

4 fresh jalapeno peppers, cut in half, deveined and seeded

Combine green onions, ginger, sugar, sake and soy sauce in a shallow glass dish and stir to dissolve sugar. Toss the salmon fillets in marinade and allow them to sit in it at room temperature for 30 minutes. Turn occasionally. Remove salmon and reserve 1/4 cup marinade.

Lay 4 pieces aluminum foil, 12 by 20 inches each, on a flat work surface. Divide the onion slices among the pieces of foil. Top each with sliced fennel and then one piece of salmon. Top the salmon with 3 to 4 corn coins, 1 jalapeno half, a ginger slice. Place 2 tomato halves around each fillet. Fold the foil up to make a container. Add 2 tablespoons of marinade to each package. Bring the long ends of the foil up and seal package tightly. (May be prepared up to 1 day ahead to this point and refrigerated, sealed.)

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place the packages on a cookie sheet and bake for 20 minutes. If using directly from the refrigerator, extend the cooking time by 10 minutes.

Place one package on each dinner plate to be opened by the diner or open and slide contents onto warm dinner plates. Serve with a green or cucumber salad and rice.

Note: Sake, Japanese rice wine, is available in most liquor stores or supermarkets.

-- From Steve Crisler, the Dragon Bistro, Los Gatos, Calif.

Salmon Flower Soup

Serves 6 as a light course

6 won ton skins

2 cups peanut oil

1/3 pound salmon fillet, skin and bones removed

1 small napa cabbage (Chinese celery cabbage)

1 package (3.4 ounces) enoki mushrooms (optional)

2 green onions

1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger

1 1/2 tablespoons dry sherry

1 tablespoon white sesame seeds

6 cups chicken stock

2 eggs

2 teaspoons Oriental sesame oil

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

salt

Several hours ahead of serving time, stack won tons, then cut to make thin rectangular pieces. In a 10-inch skillet set over medium heat, heat oil until a strip of won ton skips across the surface. Cook about one-third of the won tons at a time, scattering them across the surface. As soon as they turn a very light golden, in about 1 minute, remove to paper towels and drain.

Cut salmon into very thin rectangular pieces. Set aside. Tear enough cabbage into small pieces to fill 2 cups, then set aside. Cut off and discard dirty ends of mushrooms; separate mushroom threads and set aside. Sliver green onions and set aside. Moisten ginger with a splash of dry sherry and set aside.

In a small, ungreased skillet set over high heat, stir sesame seeds until light golden, about 2 minutes. Immediately tip out of skillet and set aside. In 6 individual soup bowls arrange won tons, salmon, cabbage, mushrooms and green onions to resemble a blossoming flower. Sprinkle over these ingredients the ginger and sesame seeds. Cover bowls with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

At serving time, bring soup bowls in refrigerator to room temperature. Bring stock to a low boil over medium heat. Beat eggs well, then beat 3 tablespoons hot soup into the eggs. Pour eggs in a thin stream into soup stock, stirring soup as the eggs hit the hot liquid. Stir in remaining sherry, sesame oil and pepper. Add salt to taste (about 1 teaspoon).

Pour soup into a decorative tureen and bring to table. Place individual soup bowls containing the salmon mixture in front of each person. Individuals ladle the hot soup into their bowls.

-- From "Pacific Flavors" by Hugh Carpenter