Take a little bit of Southwest and a little bit of Italy and the result may be avocado pasta with shiitake mushrooms, tomatoes, goat cheese and pinon nuts.

Not exactly something an American Indian or Italian would have dined on 100 years ago. But that's the idea behind Southwestern cuisine today: It has evolved from indigenous foods, borrowing techniques from other cultures along the way.

A new, beautifully photographed cookbook uses huge color photographs and more than 200 recipes to paint a culinary picture of the evolution of Southwestern cuisine. Though its illustrations make it perfect for the coffee table, "Southwest: the Beautiful Cookbook" (Collins, $45) deserves a place on the kitchen counter.

"It's using a combination of techniques from all cuisines, mainly French, with ingredients available locally," says Barbara Pool Fenzl, who compiled the recipes for the book.

Southwestern cuisine's original ethnic roots -- American Indian, Mexican and Anglo-American -- can still be traced, yet they've combined in unique ways to create whole new products, says co-author Norman Kolpas, who wrote the background and historical information sprinkled between recipe chapters.

The earliest ingredients -- squash, corn and chilies -- have been native to the Southwest for more than 5,000 years. They were among the few foods that could survive the harsh desert climate. Beans came later, Europeans introduced wheat flour and dairy products, and cowboys added their itinerant on-the-road fare to help mold Southwestern food into sturdy stews and earthy dishes.

Many of the cooking techniques were born of necessity. Slow-cooking meat with chilies tenderized tough cuts. Corn was used for flour because it was easier to grow.

And the evolution continued, borrowing more recently from the techniques and styles of classic cooking -- French, Italian and others.

The result? Ingenious hybrid dishes such as pastas, fish and salads not typically seen in the Southwest, combined with sauces, garnishes and preparation techniques that are. They're the modern, sophisticated cousins of the region's original peasant fare -- tamales, enchiladas and other corn, bean and chili dishes.

Native Southwestern vegetation such as prickly pear cactus, juniper berries and pinon nuts are becoming grocery-store staples that not only add to the dish's taste, but also to its look.

Ms. Fenzl knows some of the ingredients are still hard to find, and that personal tastes vary greatly for things like hot chilies, so she frequently provides substitutes for ingredients and urges cooks to experiment.

Southwestern ingredients also have become more healthful, Ms. Fenzl and Mr. Kolpas note. Most cooks no longer use the lard and heavy frying prevalent in traditional Mexican cooking.

"It relies on beans, corn and rice. It relies on lively seasonings such as chilies. It relegates animal proteins to a small part of the meal," Mr. Kolpas says. "It's healthy."

Neither author thinks Southwestern cooking is a fad. Because it's rooted in the region and long-established classic cooking techniques, they believe it will continue to evolve.

The authors point out that the "haute cuisine" influence on Southwestern food is most pronounced in desserts.

"There are not many desserts in this part of the country that would be considered native. It's usually just fresh fruits," Ms. Fenzl says. "It was sort of a challenge, but fun to do."

Combinations such as a classic French apple tart spiked with jalapenos, prickly pear sorbet or pinon cookies take the blending of Southwestern and haute cuisine a step further.

We tested many recipes from "Southwest: the Beautiful Cookbook." These are a few favorites.

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Pumpkins have been a southwest staple for centuries. This soup variation combines a spicy broth with a cool garnish.

Pumpkin soup with lime-ginger cream

Serves 10 to 12

1/4 cup unsalted butter

2 cups finely chopped onions

1/2 teaspoon cayenne

1 1/3 cups milk

3 cups pumpkin puree

6 cups chicken stock

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1/2 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons grated lime zest

In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add onions and slowly saute until translucent. Stir in the cayenne and transfer mixture to a food processor or blender. Add milk and pumpkin and process until smooth. Pour mixture into a saucepan and whisk in chicken stock. Bring soup to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add salt and pepper.

In a small saucepan, cook lime juice and ginger over medium heat for 2 minutes. Strain into bowl and discard ginger. Whisk sour cream into remaining liquid. Put mixture into a squeeze bottle. Ladle soup into bowls. Decorate by making designs with lime-sour cream. Sprinkle with lime zest.

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This lamb has orange overtones which can stand alone, or it blends nicely with a not-too-hot green chili sauce.

Marinated leg of lamb

Serves 6

1 leg of lamb (about 5 pounds) boned, butterflied and trimmed

MARINADE:

1/2 cup olive oil

1 1/3 cup fresh orange juice

2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried thyme

1 teaspoon cumin seed, crushed to a coarse powder

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro

salt and pepper to taste

GREEN CHILI SAUCE:

1 jalapeno chili, seeded and diced

1 garlic clove, crushed

1/4 cup chopped green onions

4 tomatillos, husked and diced

1 1/2 cups chicken stock

2 Anaheim or New Mexico green chilies, roasted, peeled, cored, seeded and diced

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon heavy cream

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine all marinade ingredients in a large non-aluminum baking pan. Add lamb. Cover and refrigerate at least overnight or up to 2 days. Turn lamb occasionally.

Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before grilling and make chili sauce. Place jalapeno, garlic, green onion, tomatillos and chicken stock in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer until liquid is reduced to about a cup, 15 to 20 minutes. Pour mixture into blender or food processor. Add Anaheim chilies, cilantro and lime juice and puree until smooth. Add salt and pepper and cream and mix again.

Grill lamb over hot coals about 3 inches from heat, basting frequently with marinade, and turning at least once. Cook until medium-rare, about 20 minutes. Slice across grain and serve with warm chili sauce.

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The chiltepin in the dressing may be a bit hard to come by and a bit hot for some, but feel free to substitute any other dried small, red chili.

Warm chicken salad

Serves 6

1 chiltepin or other dried small red chili, crushed

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

SALAD:

6 chicken breast halves, skinned and boned

6 ounces mild fresh goat cheese

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 large ears of corn, husked and roasted over charcoal or under a broiler

2 poblano chilies, roasted, peeled, cored, seeded and cut into 2-by- 1/4 -inch strips

2 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, cored, seeded and cut into 2-by- 1/4 -inch strips

3 green onions

vegetable oil for frying

6 corn tortillas, cut into 2-by- 1/4 -inch strips

12 cups assorted lettuces

2 avocados, peeled, pitted and diced

In non-aluminum bowl, make dressing by whisking together pepper, lime juice and vinegar. Slowly whisk in oil and taste. If too hot, strain through sieve and discard pepper. (The longer the peppers soak in dressing, the hotter the dressing will be.) Add salt and pepper and set aside.

While heating grill, cut pocket in each breast half, and spread goat cheese inside pocket. Press together to seal. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and grill, about 4 minutes per side or until opaque. Set aside and keep warm.

Scrape roasted corn off cob and place in medium bowl. Toss with chilies, peppers, onions and 1/4 cup of dressing. Set aside.

Pour vegetable oil 1/2 -inch deep in a skillet. Heat until hot, but not smoking. Add tortilla strips and fry until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain on paper towel.

In a large salad bowl, toss lettuce with 1/4 cup dressing and divide among six large plates. Arrange corn mixture on each. Slice each chicken breast diagonally across grain into 1/2 -inch thick slices and arrange over vegetables. Sprinkle with fried tortilla strips and diced avocado. Serve any remaining dressing separately.

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Jalapeno jelly in apple tart

Serves 8 to 10

JELLY:

1 cup each finely chopped red and green bell peppers

1/2 cup seeded, minced jalapeno chilies

6 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups cider vinegar

3/4 cup (6 fluid ounces) liquid pectin

PASTRY:

4 1/2 cup chilled unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces

1 1/2 cups unbleached flour

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 egg

3 to 4 tablespoons cold water

FILLING

2 tablespoons jalapeno jelly

4 cups Granny Smith apples (about 3 large), peeled, cored and sliced

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 tablespoon unbleached flour

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons packed brown sugar

2 teaspoons minced jalapenos

TOPPING:

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup unbleached flour

1/4 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces

3/4 cup grated Monterey jack cheese

Make jelly ahead of time. In a heavy saucepan, stir together the peppers, chili, sugar and vinegar. Bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Stir in the pectin and cook for 1 or 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool until slightly thickened. Ladle into sterilized jars.

FOR CRUST: Place butter, flour, sugar and salt in food processor or medium bowl and process or cut with two knives until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add egg and enough water to form stiff dough. Shape into a ball and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight. Roll out onto a lightly floured board, or between pieces of wax paper until 1/8 -inch thick. Fit shell into 10-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Trim edges and refrigerate until ready to use.

FOR FILLING: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Spread jalapeno jelly evenly over bottom of tart shell. Toss apples and lemon juice together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, stir granulated sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg and brown sugar. Sprinkle over apples and toss well. Turn into tart shell. Sprinkle minced jalapeno over apples.

FOR TOPPING: To make topping, in a medium bowl mix sugar and flour. Cut in butter with fork. Add cheese and mix well. Spoon evenly over apple filling. Bake until topping and crust are golden brown, about 45 to 50 minutes. Serve warm or at room

temperature.

ROASTING PEPPERS

Knowing how to roast peppers comes in handy for Southwestern cooking. The object is to char the pepper. It's a simple process that can be done on a grill or in a broiler:

* On a grill, turn the pepper occasionally until the outside is partially blackened, but not overcooked or shriveled.

* In a broiler, place the pepper on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil very close to the flame. Turn it so each side is partially blackened.

When it's done, place the pepper in a paper bag, close and let cool for at least 20 minutes. The pepper will continue to steam, separating the skin from the meat.

Once it's cool enough to handle, peel the skin -- it should come right off. Clean out the seeds and the core and you're ready to use your roasted pepper.