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MIXING BUSINESS AND PLEASURE

THE BALTIMORE SUN

More and more, the line between our personal and business lives is narrowing. Today a dinner party in your home might well be a business-based affair where you're entertaining associates from the company you work for. Business or personal, you want the occasion to be a knockout. The trick is to pull it off without knocking yourself out.

One of my favorite company dinners is poisson en croute -- or fillets in phyllo -- consisting of two kinds of fish in a golden pastry case.

Phyllo has taken a bad rap in times past. Otherwise adventurous cooks still shy away from it: It's difficult to find and tricky to work with and dripping with buttery fat, they lament.

Now, lovers of the rich and fabulous can take heart. With phyllo available at most supermarkets and non-stick cooking spray used in place of butter, phyllo-wrapped entrees are not only easy to make, but a deliciously low fat-choice for a company dinner.

However, every now and then you may get a package that is difficult to work with. Sometimes, after they're frozen, the leaves become dry and brittle and impossible to separate. Don't even try -- just buy another package. Or better yet, purchase fresh phyllo that hasn't been frozen from an Italian or Middle Eastern deli. It will stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Once the fish is wrapped in sheets of the paper-thin pastry, it makes an easy entree. You just pop it into the oven while guests are nibbling hors d'oeuvres. This is the kind of entree that allows you to be relaxed enough to feel like a guest at your own party.

The only concern in baking fish in phyllo is the same as with all fish recipes: Don't overcook. Remember, food goes on cooking after it's removed from the oven.

With an entree wrapped in pastry as the star of this dinner, you'll want to keep the supporting cast light. The relish-filled plum tomatoes are more than a side dish -- they enhance the sun-dried tomatoes in the fish filling and embellish it. Rice-shaped pasta called orzo is a refreshing departure from the usual forms of pasta. It takes very well to being coated with a vivid uncooked broccoli pesto, then studded with bright green steamed florets. I like to serve something light and lemony for dessert with this menu.

The recipes given serve six, but each can be doubled. Whether you're entertaining just the boss or a whole contingent of executives or co-workers from the home office, everyone is sure to be impressed with your on-the job performance in presenting a dinner this exceptional.

Fillets of salmon and sole in phyllo

Preparation Time: Fish -- 45 minutes. Bake time: 22 to 28 minutes. Advance Preparation: Fish wrapped in phyllo may be refrigerated overnight..

Makes 6 servings.

18 ounces fillets of sole or flounder, about 1/2 to 3/4 -inch thick

salt

12 ounces salmon fillets, about 3/8 -inch at thickest part, skinned,

12 tablespoons dried bread crumbs

6 sheets phyllo dough, at room temperature

no-stick cooking spray

fresh tarragon or parsley stems for garnish, optional

SUN-DRIED TOMATO FILLING:

12 sun-dried tomatoes

2 tablespoons regular or light sour cream

4 tablespoons regular, light or fat-free mayonnaise

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Madeira wine

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

TO PREPARE FILLING: Rehydrate tomatoes by placing in a 1-cupglass measure. Cover with water and microwave uncovered on high (100%) for 2 to 3 minutes or until very soft. Cool slightly, remove to cutting board and chop into small pieces. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together sour cream, mayonnaise, lemon juice, Madeira, mustards and tarragon. Stir in tomatoes. (Filling may be refrigerated up to 3 days.)

TO PREPARE FISH: Rinse fish and pat dry. Place half the sole fillets on a work surface to make 6 equal portions, cutting and patching them if necessary. Sprinkle with salt and spread each with 2 heaping teaspoons sauce. Measure thickness of salmon fillets; if thicker than 3/8 -inch, cover with waxed paper and pound very lightly. Do not be concerned if parts are slightly thinner. Arrange salmon fillets over the sole, cutting to fit. Sprinkle with salt and spread with remaining sauce. Top with remaining sole.

TO WRAP IN PHYLLO: Place 2 sheets of phyllo on work surface. Keep remainder covered so it doesn't dry out. Spray one sheet with no stick spray. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons bread crumbs. Top with second sheet and spray. Cut in half crosswise. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon bread crumbs over each half, leaving a 1-inch border. Place a fish packet in the center, fold one short end over, fold in sides and fold up remaining end like a wrapped package. Spray top and sides. Place seam side down on greased baking sheet at least 2 inches apart. (Do not crowd or they will steam instead of brown). Repeat with remaining fish. (Fish may be refrigerated overnight covered with plastic wrap.)

TO BAKE FISH: Heat oven to 400 degrees. Bake chilled fish for 22 to 28 minutes or until edges of phyllo are golden and a knife inserted in the center of the fish feels hot against your lips. (The center of the phyllo may be pale.) If fish has not been refrigerated after preparing, bake for 15 to 20 minutes. If using 2 baking sheets, rotate their positions after 12 minutes. Transfer packets with a spatula to plates.

Fresh tomato relish in plum tomato shells

Preparation Time: 15 minutes. Tomatoes may be scooped out a day ahead. Fill before serving.

Cook Time: 7 to 10 minutes. Advance Preparation: Relish may be refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen for 1 month.

Makes 6 servings; 2 halves each.

TOMATO RELISH:

12 medium plum tomatoes (about 8 ounces)

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 teaspoons minced shallots or onion

2 small cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons raspberry vinegar

4 teaspoons finely chopped fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried basil

1 teaspoon sugar

salt and pepper to taste

6 medium plum tomatoes

fresh basil sprigs for garnish, optional

TO MAKE RELISH: Cut tomatoes in half crosswise and remove seeds. Chop tomatoes in a food processor or by hand into about 3/8 -inch pieces. In a medium skillet over moderate heat, heat olive oil until hot. Cook shallots and garlic until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring until they come to a boil and begin to wilt, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in vinegar, basil, sugar, salt and pepper. Cool and refrigerate. (Relish may be refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen up to 1 month.)

To prepare tomato shells: Cut 6 tomatoes in half through stem end and scoop out pulp, leaving 1/4 -inch shells. Refrigerate covered.

Before serving: Bring tomato shells and relish to room temperature. Drain off excess juices from relish and mound into tomato halves. Garnish with a sprig of fresh basil, if desired.

Orzo with broccoli pesto

Preparation Time: 25 minutes. Cook Time: About 10 minutes. Advance Preparation: Orzo may be refrigerated overnight. Add broccoli flowerets up to 4 hours before serving.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

1 1/4 cups uncooked orzo pasta (10 ounce.)

broccoli pesto (see below)

1 1/2 cups small broccoli florets

1 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

2 to 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

2 to 4 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Broccoli pesto

1/2 cup packed fresh basil leaves

1 cup broccoli florets

2 cloves garlic, peeled

4 teaspoons dry sherry or Madeira

TO COOK ORZO: Bring a medium-size saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook orzo according to package directions until tender to the bite, about 10 minutes. Drain, transfer to a medium bowl (microwave safe if you plan to reheat it) and toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

While orzo cooks, make pesto: In a food processor with the metal blade, process basil, broccoli and garlic until minced. Pulse in sherry or Madeira until mixture is pureed. (Pesto may be refrigerated up to 2 days.) Add pesto to orzo and toss to coat. (Pasta may be refrigerated overnight.)

TO COOK BROCCOLI: Up to 4 hours before serving, place 1 1/2 cups broccoli florets in a microwave-safe pie dish and add 1/4 inch of water. Cover with vented plastic wrap and microwave on high (100%) for 2 to 4 minutes or until tender, but still bright green. Drain and stir into orzo. If not serving immediately, cover -- and leave at room temperature.

To reheat: Microwave orzo and broccoli on high (100%) for 2 to 4 minutes or until heated through, stirring once. Add as much Parmesan cheese, pine nuts, olive oil and salt and pepper as desired and toss well.

Marlene Sorosky's newest book, "Entertaining On the Run" (William Morrow), will be published in May.

Working with phyllo

* If possible, purchase phyllo that has not been frozen. It can be found in the refrigerator section of most Italian or Middle Eastern markets or delis.

* Let the package come to room temperature before opening it. The sheets are easier to work with at room temperature.

* Remove the sheets you are working with and spray or brush them with oil or butter as quickly as possible. Do not expose sheets to the air or they will dry out and disintegrate.

* Work quickly and keep unused portions covered with a towel or plastic wrap.

* Sprinkle bread crumbs between the layers to keep them from sticking together when they bake. This is particularly helpful if you plan to refrigerate or freeze the recipe before baking.

* Some cooks work on a lightly dampened towel, but I find it makes the dough soggy.

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