Eddie's Gourmet-to-Go 5113 Roland Ave. Hours: Open...


Eddie's Gourmet-to-Go 5113 Roland Ave. Hours: Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sat. 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. (410) 323-3656, ask for Gourmet-to-Go department.

Deep in the heart of Anne Tyler country -- which is to say, Baltimore's Roland Park neighborhood -- the accidental tourist to Eddie's Supermarket will discover the pleasures of Eddie's Gourmet-to-Go. And although the space it occupies in the back of the store is small, Gourmet-to-Go's culinary ambitions are large.

The menu changes every day, but Gourmet-to-Go offers a few favorites almost daily: a delicious Caesar salad (its dressing contains a raw egg substitute, making it safer) at $4.99 a pound; a light, tasty angel-hair pasta is $5.99 a pound; and a beguiling broccoli salad (broccoli mixed with bacon, red onion, and mozzarella cheese in a tasty dressing) is $4.99 a pound.

You can check out a whole gourmet meal for one or for a Saturday night dinner party for 10. With summer a-comin' in, you might want to consider one of their imaginative pasta dishes. Last week they offered a delicate shrimp, pasta and snow pea dish ($8.99 a pound). A cheaper and almost-as-good dish was their bow-tie pasta which is tossed in a mixture of Parmesan cheese, olive oil and garlic ($3.99 a pound).

Desserts include the kind you'd find at the Homesick Restaurant: apple crisp, pineapple and peach souffle, all $3.99 a pound and all guaranteed to remind you of Mom.

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