Bohager'sBohager's, 515 S. Eden St., (410) 563-7220....



Bohager's, 515 S. Eden St., (410) 563-7220. Bohager's has two things going for it before you ever get to the food: enough parking and a great deck out back. Inside, the restaurant is fashionably stark, but the open grill makes it too smoky for my taste. You'll love the results of that smoke, though: the succulent ribs, flavorful steaks and fat hamburgers with that good, smoky edge. Not all of our meal was as good -- thumbs down on the guacamole and a beer and Cheddar dip. And a salad with grilled tuna fillet was the worst of the lot; the tuna was ice cold and tasted fishy. But Bohager's redeemed itself with its excellent apple pie. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 9/92.)

Paul Chao's Shangri-La

Paul Chao's Shangri-La, 2426 N. Charles St., (410) 235-8744, 235-8745. Despite the new name and new decor, this is the same restaurant as the Szechuan Gourmet -- the same owner and the same food. Keep it in mind because of its central location and the fact that the food is more consistent than many downtown Chinese restaurants. Standards like won ton or hot and sour soup are done well, but the kitchen can slip with a greasy shrimp toast or too-sweet spareribs. The whole fish dishes are excellent, though, and I can also recommend the Mongolian beef. Try the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet; and if you're too tired to go out, there's free delivery within a three-mile radius ($15 minimum). $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 9/92.)

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