Hampton's,

Hampton's, The Harbor Court Hotel, 550 Light St., (410) 234-0550. Dining at Hampton's is fine, make no mistake about it. The surroundings are elegant, the service exquisite -- perhaps the best in town -- and the pace leisurely. The food is beautifully presented and wonderfully creative, though it did not always deliver on taste. And at Hampton's prices, there's little room for error or shortfall. The vegetables were, however, beautifully prepared and presented, and the desserts -- raspberry shortcake and chocolate Chesapeake -- heavenly. $$$ -- expensive (Last visited 3/92). Sunset Grill, 825 Taylor Ave., (410) 828-4650. It's a bar, and a popular one, so expect serious noise if you have dinner there Friday or Saturday nights. But almost everything is fresh and made on the premises; the food is a cut above your average bar fare. Try the Sunset burger with mushrooms, bacon and Boursin cheese; nachos with everything; a big, fresh salad. More elaborate dinners are available, too, although they tend to be uneven. Desserts are homemade. $$ -- moderate. (Last reviewed 4/92.)

ELIZABETH LARGE Wharfside, 1600 Frederick Road, Catonsville, (410) 788-1400. This could be the seafood restaurant to end all seafood restaurants. The menu has a staggering selection -- 10 lobster dishes, for instance, and 23 choices of fresh fish from mako shark to tilefish. The Wharfside doesn't quite bring it off, though. Your best bet is to choose from the specials of the day; dishes like seafood chowder and shad with shad roe were just about perfect, while our other choices were all flawed in some way. $$ -- moderate. (Last visited 3/92.)

ELIZABETH LARGE