New York is a great city if it ever gets finished," former mayor Ed Koch said in his own inimitable fashion.
But that, of course, is one of the great charms of this hybrid city -- something new is always happening, being built, created and achieved.
The latest, and possibly the boldest and most stunning effort, is Battery Park City, the new waterfront community at the southern tip of lower Manhattan. This enormous mixed-use development has changed the face of the Wall Street district. The 92-acre landfill, adjacent to the financial district, snugly hugs the Hudson River. And this new, dynamic residential and commercial community promises to become the city's greatest oasis.
A two-mile-long park plan already has an esplanade with exquisite gardens, sculpture and every kind of seating -- wooden benches, marble benches, deck chairs that are movable, reminiscent of St. James Park in London ("We don't want everything bolted down," said the planners). Strollers gaze at crab apple trees surrounded by wildflowers as a waterfall cascades down the side of a building; there are two reflecting pools, an orchard with a water path, a topiary garden -- and a progression of surprises.
At South Cove, the 3-acre area at the southern end of the esplanade, pedestrians wander along pathways that shift from paved surfaces to boardwalk-style wood to metal gratings over water. The lovely esplanade is even more romantic at night with lights dancing on the river and the reflective magic of art and facades in the park.
This innovative neighborhood combines interesting disparate elements -- the monumentality of skyscrapers with huge open spaces, a delightful and creative park, a panoramic waterfront, residential buildings. It all somehow coalesces and achieves the compactness and coziness of a vital community where people choose to live.
The ultimate plan calls for a 50-acre waterfront park. But already people-watching has become a favorite recreation. New Yorkers and visitors leisurely stroll along the esplanade watching the ever-changing panorama on the waterfront. The Statue of Liberty, seen nearby in the harbor, seems to be smiling at this harmonious scene. Eventually, visitors can stroll through more than two miles of waterfront starting at the Statue of Liberty ferries at the southern tip of Manhattan to the still undeveloped areas north and west of the World Trade Center.
Begun with city and state funds (it has cost $4 billion so far), Battery Park City's several residential and commercial buildings are already well occupied. Eventually, the land will be 42 percent residential and 9 percent commercial; 30 percent will remain open space including public parks, plazas and esplanade. Nineteen percent will be streets and avenues. A high school is currently being built in the community. Areas for tennis, basketball and handball have been discreetly landscaped in the park design and blend inconspicuously.
One park area features creative gardens from topiary to Japanese rock gardens to lily ponds. There are plans for a sunken skating rink larger than the one at Rockefeller Center.
The World Financial Center is the hub of Battery Park City.
Situated just west of the World Trade Center, the World Financial Center is a complex that joins several interconnected office buildings. The dramatic centerpiece of this complex is the Winter Garden, a radiant, 120-foot-high structure of glass, steel and marble designed by Cesar Pelli. Paul Goldberger, an architecture critic, described it as "perhaps the grandest public space built in New York since Grand Central Terminal." And spectacular it is.
The main entrance is a stunner. A grand hourglass staircase descends wide polished marble steps onto a vast marble floor. High above is a glass and steel roof through which one can see the office towers of the World Financial Center. Sixteen majestic palm trees, 45 feet in height, rise from the floor of the atrium with benches surrounding them and an open cafe at one side. At the far end of this striking scene is a sheer wall of glass that reveals a spacious public plaza, a marina and the tranquil waters of the Hudson. An enclosed courtyard within steps of the garden is designed to resemble the outdoor piazzas of Europe. It is a three-story piazza surrounded by balconies and punctuated with columns that rise 45 feet from its patterned marble floor to its glass-peaked roof. There is already a Mexican restaurant, Chinese restaurant and American cafe and a tropical bar.
Robert Bloom, a New York attorney, recently moved into a condominium at Battery Park City with his wife. "It's a vibrant, exciting place to live," said Mr. Bloom. "Something is always happening. The views of the river are continually fascinating, the architecture is fabulous, the pace of life is relaxed yet stimulating. The public art along the esplanade is marvelous; it is BTC said that this will be New York's most important showcase for public art. And we see wonderful entertainment at the Winter Garden all the time -- it's a fantastic new scene in New York."
During the week, workers enjoy sitting on the stairway or the benches, often bringing their brown lunch bags with them. Some relax outdoors at the plaza, watching the constantly changing people scene. Boutiques and restaurants surround the Winter Garden, and there are two escalators at the river end.
The first boat arrivals have put in at North Cove yacht harbor (there will be several yacht harbors built in the marina). At an outdoor terrace, the Edward Moran Grill offers diners harborside eating under a tree-shaded veranda as they sit near the waterfall and watch the parade of sailing ships. The tony Hudson River Club, just a few stories above sea level, prepares creative dishes served in a handsome dining room that looks like a private club. Views of the esplanade and marina complete a picture-perfect way to dine.
To keep things humming after office workers have gone home, the developers have begun a first-rate arts and events program free to the public. One can see anything from H1 Circus Europa to a Japanese drum ensemble to Sunday jazz concerts.
Ed Koch would probably say, "Battery Park City could only happen in New York" . . . and, of course, he'd be right.
If you go . . .
The Winter Garden is near the corner of West and Vesey streets. To get there, take the subway to Cortlandt Street (lines 1, R and N) or Chambers Street (lines A, E or C). Walk west through the World Trade Center over the covered bridge to the World Financial Center.
Where to stay: Vista Hotel, 3 World Trade Center, (800) 258-2505, is the closest hotel to the World Financial Center; indoor swimming pool, fitness center (around $200 a night).
Rooms under $100: Hotel Beverly, 125 E. 50th St., (800) 223-0045. One of New York's best buys, this intimate hotel offers junior suites ($99 per night) and one-bedroom suites ($119 per night) that can accommodate four people. Many suites with kitchenettes. Manhattan East Suite Hotels, (800) ME-SUITE. Nine hotels with all-suite accommodations with room service, baby sitting.
Rooms under $150: Doral Court, 130 E. 39th St., (212) 685-1100. Homey, quiet atmosphere, free parking, Courtyard Cafe. Morgan's, 237 Madison Ave. and 37th St. (212) 686-0300. Chic, stylish hotel; Continental breakfast included.
Rooms more than $150: Drake Swissotel, 440 Park Ave. at 56th St., (212) 421-0900. Children stay free with parents. The Peninsula, 700 Fifth Ave. at 55th St., (212) 247-2200. Rooftop swimming pool. The Carlyle, Madison Avenue at 76th St., (212) 744-1600. Elegant hotel with daily tea.
Where to dine: In Battery Park City: Hudson River Club, Edward Moran Bar & Grill, Le Pactole, Au Mandarin, Donald Sacks.
Dining elsewhere: Rainbow Room (ultra glamorous), Sandomenico, Larre (best buy), Box Tree Hotel.
For more information: New York Convention and Visitors Center, 2 Columbus Circle, New York, N.Y. 10019, (212) 397-8222.