O'Toole's Roadhouse,

O'Toole's Roadhouse, 7400 Ritchie Highway, Glen Burnie, (410) 761-8815. O'Toole's Roadhouse is one of those eclectic restaurants that became a hallmark of the '80s. It's eclectic in appearance, clientele and food. The menu includes Oriental chicken salad and chicken stir fry, barbecued baby back ribs and filet mignon, basic burgers and a tuna melt, quiche and fettuccine alfredo. Our meal was eclectic, too. After thick and tasty potato skins, my dinner of marinated tuna was almost bland. My husband's Tex-Mex selections, however, tended toward the fires of hell. $$moderate. (Last visited 11/91.) Spike and Charlie's, 1225 Cathedral St., (410) 752-8144. By emphasizing stylish bistro dining instead of high-priced entertainment, this great-looking new restaurant and wine bar is revitalizing its formerly "jinxed" corner. The menu, as novel as the urban-hip decor, is lively, but, alas, some of the dishes are niftier on paper than on the plate. Still, prices are on the modest side, the location is prime and the fabulous homemade ice cream will spoil you for even the best packaged kind. $$moderate. (Last visited 12/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS The Imperial Hotel, 208 High St., Chestertown, (410) 778-5000. New owners and a new chef have transformed the Imperial Hotel. We enjoyed beautiful lettuces, meats, vegetables and fruits, and a full room where people were happy and comfortable. Order by whim. You can hardly go wrong, whether with chicken and apple sausage; wild mushrooms and garlic; salads; lamb in mint, garlic and saffron; pork with dried fruits, thyme and mustard; venison with wild mushrooms; or salmon in basil cream sauce. Desserts were glorious. $$$expensive. (Last visited 10/91.)

JANICE BAKER