The Pavilion at the Walters, 600 N....


The Pavilion at the Walters, 600 N. Charles St., 727-2233. The Pavilion opened in May behind and below the new Hackerman House Gallery in Mount Vernon. It is an elegant, serene, restaurant with an entrance on Charles Street and a sweeping staircase to the dining room below street level. Open only for lunch, the Pavilion offers a menu of traditional midday fare, but with a twist or two. The club sandwich, for instance, stars salmon instead of the usual turkey or ham; the Waldorf Salad includes chicken. The food is beautifully presented and delicious; the service top-notch, if a bit hovering. $$ 1/2 moderately expensive. (Last visited 7/91.) Egyptian Pizza, 542 E. Belvedere Ave., 323-7060. Egyptian Pizza, the third Al Pacino Cafe, is no mere pizzeria, but a real restaurant with a varied menu. We were enthusiastic about the combination plate of tangy, garlicky Middle Eastern dips and nibbles, and a stellar seafood pasta. But pizza still stars -- there are 30 of them, from basic Italian models to California fancies garnished with tandoori chicken, smoked salmon or goat cheese. There are even, yes, Egyptian pizzas! $inexpensive. (Last visited 7/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Ding How, 631-637 S. Broadway, 327-8888. The food is somewhat conventional, but an exceptionally urbane staff and tranquil rooms give Ding How a competitive edge. Both steamed dumplings and cold noodles in sesame sauce were short on spark. "Whole fish a la Szechuan" reminded us that these days a good, fresh fish is hard to find. But we enjoyed excellent Sichuan string beans, good won-tons in a robust poultry broth, beautiful vegetables in Empress duck, moo shu pork and an amusing steamed rice pudding for dessert. $$moderate. (Last visited 6/91.)


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