ORIENT EXPRESS OF GEORGETOWN3111 St. Paul St....

THE BALTIMORE SUN

ORIENT EXPRESS OF GEORGETOWN

3111 St. Paul St. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sundays to Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Call 889-0003.

My daughter first tasted chicken with broccoli from the Orient Express about three years ago. She's been a fan of the dish ever since.

A return visit reminded me how the dish won her over: The large pieces of chicken are extremely tender, and the sauce light enough not to put off a finicky youngster. She even ate the broccoli, which was tender and flavorful.

The Orient Express' food is generally pleasing, in a traditional way, whatever your age. We found a recent carryout meal very satisfying indeed.

In addition to the chicken with broccoli ($6.75), we found the sauteed green beans Sichuan ($5.75) crunchy and peppery, but not too hot, and the jumbo shrimp with vegetables ($7.95) very good. It was a lovely blend of tender shrimp and colorful, crisp vegetables. My husband particularly liked the hearty pork lo mein ($5.25).

The fried won tons ($3.25 for six) were tasty without being greasy. And the accompanying sauce was flavored with fruit -- plums, I think -- without being cloyingly sweet. I wished I had more won tons to dip in it.

The Orient Express's menu offers a pretty traditional selection of Chinese fare in varying degrees of heat. You can eat in at this Charles Village restaurant, carry out or call for delivery after 5 p.m.

The prices seem a little steep, although most entrees are available in regular and large portions. But the food does seem to be of high quality and carefully prepared -- making the prices more palatable.

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