Brown's Wharf, Fells Point. Hours: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays to Wednesdays; 8 a.m. to 3 a.m. Thursdays to Saturdays. Call 276-5751.

Rosalie Spence, owner of the Deli, is a familiar face. Visitors to the Brown's Wharf shop quickly recognize her from the days when she sold hot pretzels and popcorn at the Brokerage and in Fells Point. Now she sells Belgian waffles, raisin nut logs, bagels, breakfasts, sandwiches, salads and desserts at a friendly storefront on Thames Street.

The Deli just opened three weeks ago, so it's not without new business pains -- a wait here, no seafood salad there -- but don't let that stop you from trying the healthy-sized combination sandwiches that come with creamy coleslaw and chips ($5.50) or the linguine salad ($2.75) or the chef salad ($4.75).

Ms. Spence also serves knishes ($1.25), fruit and cheese ($2.50), deviled eggs (two for 25 cents) and deviled eggs with crab (two for $1.25) -- hmmmm, sound good, don't they?

The desserts, including cobbler, cookies and pies, are baked daily. And the specials -- ribs with coleslaw and potato salad and deviled egg quiche, among others the day I visited -- give the standard menu an appetizing change of pace. Ms. Spence, a former social worker -- perfect practice, she says, for this latest venture -- certainly has come a long way from popcorn and pretzels.

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