Many people, Aaron Beiler was told recently, think the Amish are putting on some sort of show for the benefit of tourists. "A big percentage of people think it's just a big Disneyland or something," he says with a laugh.
Tourists who observe the Amish horse-drawn buggies keeping their own steady, serene pace at the edges of well-traveled Lancaster County roads might be forgiven for mistaking Pennsylvania Dutch country for some sort of Williamsburgesque living-history theme park. The "Plain People" in their long beards and straw hats, or their caps and modest, aproned dresses, are so purposefully out of step with hustling mainstream America that they might be living long, long ago or far, far away instead of thriving right in our midst.
Spending a day in an Amish market, though, can banish a whole lot of stereotypes. Take Mr. Beiler, for instance. The market master (manager) of the Pennsylvania Dutch Farmers' Market in Annapolis is "old order" Amish; he drives a buggy instead of a car, and when he's not at the market lives a hard-working, non-mechanized life on a dairy farm near Intercourse, Pa. But Mr. Beiler does not display the dour demeanor one might expect of someone who was born to an austere fundamentalist sect. Friendly and quick to laugh, he is amazingly easy-going for someone so busy.
In an Amish market, visitors will also discover more earthly plenty than they could imagine, from such traditional Pennsylvania Dutch specialties as scrapple, souse, and big chewy pretzels to chocolates and chicken cordon bleu. There's even pizza, made fresh at the market by Amish hands. Some of the markets' goods are made by the invariably courteous stall-holders themselves, others are supplied by neighboring family businesses, cottage industries, and larger Pennsylvania-based operations.
One of the pleasures of market shopping -- right up there with the ruby-red tomatoes and fresh-off-the-griddle doughnuts -- is observing the interesting ways Amish folk culture butts heads with the 20th century. Look, for instance, at the demure young Amish woman who looks like someone in an antique print -- except for the pocket calculator in her hand. Or the girl near the front door, wearing an old-fashioned lavender dress, white apron, prayer cap -- and running shoes. While the older folk in the market are shod in black oxfords, the younger Amish like sportier footgear. "I never thought I would pay that much for shoes, but they're very comfortable. I'm walking on air," says Mr. Beiler of his new black Nikes.
Maryland does have its own Amish communities, especially in St. Mary's County, where buggies can be spotted and shoo-fly pies purchased at outdoor summer markets. But no Baltimorean need venture so far to meet the Plain People and taste their wares.
Closest to home is the small Amish market that sets up shop Fridays and Saturdays at North Point Plaza. The market, according to manager Amos Beiler (no relation to Aaron Beiler) has been at North Point for four years, and before that was on Pulaski Highway. The Amish-run area, tucked inside a larger market peddling more commercial merchandise, comprises only five stalls. Mr. Beiler's business, Pennsylvania Dutch Kitchen, sells dairy products, homemade custards and puddings, meats, and a range of salads. Next to him, his daughters sell fresh eggs and snack foods and make soft pretzels on the spot. Produce can be found across the aisle.
Mr. Beiler's mother-in-law Lydia King takes charge of two areas, a candy stand (fresh fudge, yes, but Ninja Turtles gum, too) and a craft shop. Several Lancaster Countians, especially women who stay at home with small children, supply Mrs. King with crafts, and she makes the quilts herself -- although a couple of the lavishly quilted crib-size models were made by her 87-year-old aunt.
Next to Mrs. King's kingdom is the bakery stand, where among the scores of Amish and Mennonite-made items one can find such country treats as black bottom cupcakes, apple dumplings, sweet-potato pie, and lattice-topped strawberry-rhubarb pie.
The keeper of this stall isn't Amish, although she is from "up home" in the Gap area of eastern Lancaster County. She is, in fact, the Beilers' driver. As the Amish stall-keepers can't make the trip from Pennsylvania to Maryland by buggy, and their faith does not allow them to drive motorized vehicles, they hire trucks and drivers to bring their goods and themselves to market.
(In another compromise with modern times, Amish merchants are willing to use modern refrigeration systems, electricity, telephones and other high tech, as long as they rent, not own, them).
A larger Amish market operates Thursdays through Saturdays in the northern Montgomery County town of Burtonsville. The Dutch Country Farmers' Market, like the North Point market, can be identified by the buggy silhouette on its facade; it shares a former Safeway site in Burtonsville Shopping Center with a Chesapeake Bay Seafood House.
The market's new manager is Gideon Yoder (Aaron Beiler's cousin), who was elected to the position several months ago by the other stallholders. "I've got my own place here, but someone's got to be the mediator, and we've got to help each other out," he explains.
In addition to his own barbecued chicken, he lists the four-year-old market's offerings: fresh poultry, barbecued hams, ribs, fresh and smoked meats, lunch meats, seafood, baked goods, pretzels and chips, cheese, cheesecakes, salads, produce, funnel cakes, candy, ice cream, and crafts.
About 70 percent of the stall-holders are Amish, from the Gap and Strasburg areas, he says: "Some of the ones that are non-Amish used to be, or their parents were."
The largest number of Amish, however, can be found congregated at the Pennsylvania Dutch Farmers' Market, open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays in Annapolis Harbour Center, a brand new shopping center which, with its blue board siding and its lighthouse, strives for the look of a New England fishing village.
Only one of the market's businesses is run by non-Amish: Fisherman's Seafood. "We don't grow fish," Aaron Beiler jokes.
Until January, the market had for almost eight years occupied a building near the Chesapeake Pottery on the Eastern Shore. When word got out that the market was losing its lease with the building's new owners, Mr. Beiler had 37 offers of new spaces.
The Harbour Center market, which has been open since March, hTC is a bustling, colorful place, overflowing with food and folk art, including quilts by Mr. Beiler's wife, mother, mother-in-law and sister-in-law. Especially charming is a small lunchroom painted with pastoral murals of the four seasons; the artist, Anna Mary Lapp, can be found behind the counter, preparing soups from scratch.
"She didn't sketch it first or anything," says Aaron Beiler admiringly. "I told her I would never stand behind a grill if I could do that."
Some of the people at the market are full-time merchants, but others also work on farms, or as carpenters. (Some of the men aren't at market right now, Aaron Beiler says, because it's hay-making time.) This is one reason why the market is only open three days a week.
"People don't understand why we aren't open more, but we have plenty to do Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays, too," the market master points out. "I tell everybody if we're working every day, you might as well call us Safeway!"
Visiting the markets
*AMISH FARMERS'MARKET, North Point Plaza, 2300 block North Point Blvd., Dundalk.
To get there: From Baltimore, go east on Erdman avenue (which will turn into North Point boulevard), past the Beltway (I-695). The shopping center will be on the right.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Fridays, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays.
*DUTCH COUNTRY FARMERS' MARKET, Burtonsville Shopping Center, 15622 Old Columbia Pike, Burtonsville.
To get there: From Baltimore, take Route 29 south to the junction of Route 198. Shopping center will be on the right.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursdays, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Fridays, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays.
*PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH FARMERS' MARKET, Annapolis Harbour Center, Route 2 at Patuxent boulevard, Annapolis.
To get there: From Baltimore, take Route 3 and Route 97 toward Annapolis. Exit onto Route 665 (Patuxent boulevard). Go about a mile, you will see Harbour Center on the left. Go to end of Patuxent, and bear left onto Route 2 to the shopping center.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursdays, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Fridays, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays.